With drought conditions initiating water restrictions,many pet owners are being affected. For those people keeping fish in aquariums and ponds the role that water plays in your pet's well being is paramount. Understanding your local laws and becoming water wise is all it takes to stay in control.
Local councils have provisions in place to ensure the humane upkeep of animals is possible even if plants are dying. Check with your local council for your entitlements and obligations as a pet owner.
Ponds and fountains that house fish can often be topped up for the sake of the inhabitants. Where practical it is best to keep all of the fish in as few ponds as possible to reduce strain on water infrastructure. Plants and filtration can also be added to reduce the burden of ponds that require water changes.
Aquariums are subject to less frequent restrictions as they are indoors. You and your fish will both be familiar with the mains water you are accustomed to using. However tap water may be replaced with other sources for your fish keeping needs At some stage.
If you begin doing your water changes and top ups with rainwater be sure to add some degree of hardness. Rainwater is lacking the dissolved minerals that make your regular water suitable for many fish. Around cities water from the sky may have collected air pollutants making it unsuitable for delicate aquarium fish.
Keeping these water wise ideas in mind will allow you and your fish to make it through all but the harshest water restrictions you might face.
1 Şubat 2008 Cuma
Aquatic Pets & Water Restrictions
Biological Loading
How many fish can my aquarium hold?
Biological loading is a term you may remember from high school science. You probably did a field trip to a storm drain where you took some water samples for analysis.
This concept has practical meaning for aquarium keepers. Biological loading is a system for measuring an ecosystem's wastes and required resources in relation to how many inhabitants it can support. For the aquarium (an ecosystem) it determines the number of organisms that can be kept within the fish tank.
It is safe to say that the larger an aquarium is the more fish it can hold. As a general rule it is often said that an aquarium's fish capacity is equal to 7cm of fish per liter of water. In biological loading terms 7cm of fish per liter of water is the maximum loading the ecosystem can sustain. The aquarium stocked at this level would be said to have a high biological loading.
Unfortunately 7cm of fish per liter is not a good measure for determining fish capacity as it does not take into account the specific filtration method, water temperature, fish growth and other limiting factors. To accurately determine the precise maximum biological loading would be a complex process. An understanding of the principals of biological loading can help prevent and troubleshoot aquarium problems however.
The main things to consider are dissolved oxygen and dissolved Nitrogen componds. Doing the following things will increase your maximum biological loading, allowing you to safely keep more fish.
- Agitate the surface of the water. This is were the majority of oxygen will enter the water.
- Cooler water can hold more oxygen. Keeping the water at the bottom of your fish's preferred range will allow more oxygen to be available.
- Do water changes of at least 25% weekly to remove nitrate. Do not change to much or you may upset the useful bacteria.
- Activated carb on and other chemical absorbing resins, granules and chips can increase the productivity of your filtration without increasing turbulence.
- ediately. Sometimes less is more.
Clean up uneaten food scraps imm
Also remember to consider the social needs of the individual species. Breeding fish, cold water fish and aggressive fish will all need more space. This can not be provided by a tank with maximum biological loading.
31 Ocak 2008 Perşembe
Aquarium Maturation
During the maturation stage your aquarium water will undergo some chemical changes as bacteria levels increase.
Aquarium maturation is complete when bacteria have colonized the filtration system, gravel and other surfaces.
These bacteria oxidize highly toxic ammonia into less harmful nitrogen compounds.
It is a two step process where different varieties of bacteria facilitate the reactions.
Ammonia > Nitrite > Nitrate
Nitrosomas bacteria begin the process by using ammonia and releasing nitrite. Nitrobacter use this nitrite and release nitrate. Both of these bacteria require oxygen to complete these reactions making them aerobic in nature. When considered collectively these micro-organisms are often referred to as nitrifying bacteria.
There are several methods to help speed up this aquarium maturation process. These may be useful but are not essential. If you have a friend with a matured aquarium it is time to go for a visit. Check that there is no sickness or algae in their tank. By borrowing a small amount of filter material from the older aquarium it will act as seed for your new filter. Keep the filter material submerged in water from the old tank and prevent temperature fluctuations while transporting. Aquarium water can also be borrowed to give your aquarium a head start.
These methods will be most effective where the original aquarium has similar water conditions to your new fish tank. Temperature and PH fluctuations can upset useful bacteria as much as they can affect fish. Adjust your aquarium water to match the old tank then gradually change PH as required.
Commercial aquarium bacteria starters are available also. These are often dried powders made from the spores of selected bacterial strains. After adding these bacteria to the aquarium the maturation period can be reduced.
During the aquarium maturation process you will notice some visual changes in your water quality. Water may become clouded in the beginning but should change to crystal clear with time.
Ensuring an aquarium has sufficiently matured requires patience, but following these water cycling techniques will reward you with the best environment for your new fish.
http://www.e-aquarium.com.au/aquarium_maturation.htm
Aquarium Water Hardness
Hardness of water is related to the quantities of dissolved minerals it contains. In fish tanks the hardness level is important as each aquarium fish has an optimal range in which it should live. When hardness levels are low the aquarium is said to have soft water.
In a fish's natural habitat the water hardness is primarily determined by the geographical features of the catchment area in which it lives. Runoff containing limestone and other rock minerals will add hardness to the creek or lake in which it collects. Vegetated areas such as rainforests generally produce soft water creeks and rivers.
The water available to your home is also influenced in the same way. Domestic mains water is always harder than the water collected directly from falling rain. Once you know your local water hardness it will rarely vary in the future.
Temporary Hardness
Some agents which contribute to hardness can be removed through reactions within the aquarium environment. Dissolved carbonates are often the cause. This carbonate hardness (KH) acts as a buffer on the water pH. As long as there is dissolved carbonate above 3 degrees of KH the pH will be stabilised in the alkaline range.
Permanent Hardness
Even more important for aquarium fish is the permanent hardness value. This is usually linked to the calcium and magnesium levels within the water. It is also known as general hardness (GH).
This is the more important form of hardness because it is not fluctuating with any pH changes. When measuring and adjusting it should be permanent hardness that is concentrated on.
Measuring Water Hardness
Though all freshwater aquarium owners should monitor water hardness it rarely happens in most homes. This is because of the need testing equipment. For some the cost of an electronic general hardness meter will be more than the cost of the aquarium. Chemical tests are also available that are not as expensive.
You can use a local resources to have your water hardness determined. City councils should have a good idea of what the tap water hardness should be in your area. Contact the water department and ask to speak with someone who tests the water for the best opinion. For specific hardness readings you can take a sample to your local pet shop who should be happy to test it for free.
There are numerous ways of quantifying the hardness level. In aquariums the degrees of hardness scale (DH) is the most commonly used but referring to it in parts per million is also useful for accurately applying adjustment dosage.
Adjusting Water Hardness
It is a lot easier to increase hardness than it is to reduce it. For this reason it can simplify matters if you choose fish suited to your local water conditions.
Manufacturing your own soft water can be done using a reverse osmosis filter but these are prohibitively expensive for the hobby fish keeper. Devices that remove hardness using ionic exchange can also be obtained.
Where practical, soft water fish are best kept in adjusted rainwater. This will not be possible in areas of significant air pollution however. Filtering tap water through peat should be used in such cases. Box filters can be packed with the dry material and the hardness will be removed as it passes through the filter. Demineralised water can also be used if required.
Increasing hardness can be achieved by using products such as calcium carbonate, magnesium sulphate or calcium sulphate powders. When administering these products they may not immediately dissolve. A white sediment may settle on plants and ornaments but this will dissipate over a few days. Some clouding may also be experienced from the suspension of fine particles.
Degrees of | mg/l or ppm | General |
|---|---|---|
0 - 3 | 0 - 54 | very soft |
3 - 6 | 54 - 108 | soft |
6 - 12 | 108 - 216 | slightly hard |
12 - 18 | 216 - 324 | moderately hard |
18 - 30 | 324 - 540 | hard |
30 + | 540 + | very hard |
To convert a DH measurement to the parts per million scale multiply the DH by 17.9. If you know your local water's hardness you can use this information to add the correct amount of calcium carbonate to your water.
The steps to follow are:
1. Determine your aquarium volume.
2. Subtract your Current DH from the goal DH to calculate the number of DH units needed.
3. Multiply this figure by 17.9 to convert it to ppm.
4. Multiply the ppm required by the aquarium volume to calculate the total mg required.
5. Divide the mg value by 1000 for the total number of calcium carbonate grams required.
Volume x ( [Current DH - Goal DH] x 17.9) divided by 1000 = grams required
For example if you have a 100 liter aquarium and your tap water is 10DH, and you wanted 15DH water it would take:
100 x ([15 -10] x 17.9) / 1000 = 8.95 grams
Decorative limestone rocks and coral substrates can also help to manage the water hardness. They will gradually dissolve over time rather than the sudden increase produced by powders. Using such materials in the aquarium is an excellent strategy where hard water fish are kept.
Aquarium Temperature
Fish are ectotherms or poikilotherms which simply means they are cold blooded. As a cold blooded animal fish are dependant upon the aquarium water temperature to regulate their metabolism. If you are not keeping an aquarium within the correct temperature range a fish's health will suffer.
Generally tropical freshwater and reef marine aquariums are maintained at a particular range of temperature. It falls in the 22-30 degree Celsius range depending on the species kept and their origins. Below 22 degrees Celsius is the desired temperature for cold water fish.
Temperature is sometimes raised or lowered under certain conditions. Most fish require a drop or rise in temperature to initiate breeding. This action mimics a change in season which coaxes the fish into spawning. Temperature is sometimes also raised or lowered while treating an illness or using a particular medication.
There are two devices designed for regulating the temperature of an aquarium. These are known as aquarium heaters and aquarium chillers. Generally only one of these devices will be required depending on weather the water needs to be kept above or below the room temperature.
Temperature can be monitored using an immersed thermometer or a stick on thermometer. Either will be accurate enough to monitor the fish's environment. Digital thermometers with alarms are also available for aquariums that require accuracy and safety.
During a prolonged power failure your fish may become at risk of leaving the optimum temperature range. In such situations it is convenient to keep pieces of polystyrene sheeting that can be taped on the outside of the aquarium until the power returns. Such insulation should cover the top of the aquarium while allowing some air flow onto the water surface.
30 Ocak 2008 Çarşamba
The Advantages Of Freshwater Aquaria
The Problems With Marine Aquariums
There is no doubt that marine aquariums can be incredibly spectacular. The range of brightly coloured saltwater fish and corals can be used to recreate amazing miniature reefs. Such aquariums are often the original inspiration for people to purchase their first fish tank.
Unfortunately marine aquariums have many disadvantages that may not be obvious to the potential fish owner. This article is aimed at those new fish owners who have stopped to consider what type of aquarium they will choose.
Marine Aquarium Cost
The luxury nature of saltwater aquaria places these fish homes at the top of the price pyramid. Setting up a freshwater aquarium can be expensive, but the costs involved with marine fish tanks are consistently less affordable. If you are an aspiring Deuce Bigalow looking for a new way to flaunt your money then maybe marine aquariums are for you. Your local pet shop knows marine aquariums can be a symbol of wealth and is more than happy to charge accordingly. Equipment must be made from materials that can withstand the corrosive nature of the saltwater. Approach any marine aquarium purchase with an open mind, and an open wallet.
The Empty Nest
A favourite aspect of fish keeping is watching the miracle of reproduction. There is nothing more enjoyable than seeing a new batch of guppies grow into their adult colours or witnessing a doting convict parent heard it's young. If these sound like pass times you might also enjoy, then you may be disappointed with a marine aquarium. There are only a small handful of saltwater fish that are bred in captivity. These marine species that do reproduce, will not breed easily like many freshwater fish.
Ethics
Due to the rare captive reproduction of marine fish most are collected from natural reef ecosystems. This places strain on the environments from which the fish originate. The marine capture methods used in some foreign countries can be very destructive. Flooding the reef with poisons can make fish capture simple but needlessly kills other organisms. On the other hand most freshwater fish species are produced for the aquarium trade in artificial environments.
Plants
Marine aquariums are not for you if you have ambitions of exercising your aquatic green thumb. Perhaps you could grow some kelp but don't expect to find any in a pet shop. The range available means they are generally not stocked in retail outlets.
Complications
When it comes to marine aquariums there is a lot less room for error regarding most aspects. Marine reefs are sensitive ecosystems that will not tolerate fluctuation. Your saltwater fish tank will require a number of water test kits that you can usually do without in freshwater aquaria.
Aquarium Calculators
The websites below contain aquarium volume calculators and other tools useful for fish tank equations. Accurately determining your aquarium volume will allow the correct dosage for medications, chlorine neutralisers and hardness compounds.
Even with the help of an aquarium volume calculator you will have to make corrections. When inputting the dimensions be sure to measure the height of the water rather than the entire aquarium height.
The aquarium substrate and any aquarium decorations will also skew the results by taking up part of the aquarium volume. For the most accurate result measure the amount of water displaced by the objects when submerged. Alternately you can make a fair estimate of the volume and subtract this from the total.
Aquarium Chillers
This type of aquarium chiller is best installed in a spacious area where there is good ventilation. This is because it has a compressor and cooling fans that are connected to your aquarium with pipelines. They are quite large and require correct installation. The pipelines may require some modification to suit your situation. The design must be planned before installing such aquarium chillers.DIY Aquarium Chiller Because of the expertise involved in creating your own aquarium chiller, it is a task best not attempted by the average fishkeeper. There is no practical DIY alternative to buying the aquarium water chiller. Do not even bother attempting to route your water through an old freezer or point an air conditioner at the water.Marine Aquarium Chillers Most aquarium water chillers will be suitable for the harsh environment of a marine aquarium.Since these devices are mainly used in marine aquariums it is not surprising. None the less, you should make sure the model you choose is in fact a marine aquarium chiller.Buying The Chiller When it comes time to part with your hard earned money expect to pay several hundred dollars for your aquarium water chiller. Cheap aquarium chillers purchased second hand are one money saving option. Sometimes people will buy an old second hand marine aquarium and discard the chiller in preference of their new plans for a tropical tank. This can be a good opportunity to pick up an aquarium chiller cheaply. If they are a reliable brand such as Teco aquarium chillers there is every chance the second hand alternative will chill your fish tank for years to come.
Aquarium pH
In acidic water there is an abundance of negatively charged hydrogen ions but a smaller number of suitable molecules to bond with. For alkaline water the chemistry is reversed as any free hydrogen is quickly bonded into larger molecules when available. Neutral water is in a state of equilibrium where the acidic and alkaline reagents have balanced one another out.
In an aquarium, free hydrogen accumulates through the decay of fish wastes and other organic matter. Therefore most aquariums will gradually move toward a state of acidity as natural biological processes run their course. Calcium carbonate based rocks and gravel are said to have a buffering effect which can keep the water in the alkaline range. This occurs as the components dissolve and bond with the free Hydrogen.
Thankfully applying pH to your aquarium does not require an intimate knowledge of chemistry. Most aquarium fish have a well documented pH preference. It is common that a fish's requirements usually fall within the range of 6.5 and 7.5. To keep your aquarium inhabitants content it is a simple process of measuring and adjusting the pH of the water.
Measuring pH
Determining the aquarium pH level is a simple procedure. Accurate test kits are available from pet outlets for this purpose. Tablet based kits or litmus paper are suitable, but the most economical method involves a liquid reagent that is added to a water sample.
Bromothymol blue is the most common testing reagent in such kits. Such products will typically perform several hundred tests. After a few drops have been added to a fresh water sample the resulting colour is compared to a chart. By matching the colour and shade a reasonably accurate pH reading can be obtained.
Adjusting pH
Changing the aquarium pH is a simple process of adding one of two chemicals. The manufacturer's instructions will not prescribe a set dosage however. Instead, the chemical is added and the water is retested until the desired level is achieved.
Such adjustment products are also readily available from pet shops. Some pH test kits will even include these adjustment chemicals as part of the package. Generally you will find yourself using alkalinity increase powders rather than acidifying agents. Therefore these package deals may not be the most economical choice in the long run.
7 Kasım 2007 Çarşamba
Tetraodon Nigroviridis
Order: Tetraodontiformes (puffers and filefishes)
Class: Actinopterygii (ray-finned fishes)
FishBase name: Spotted green pufferfish
Max. size: 17.0 cm TL (male/unsexed; Ref. 12693)
Environment: demersal; freshwater; brackish; pH range: 8.0 – 8.0; dH range: 9 - 19 Climate: tropical; 24 – 28°C
Importance: fisheries: of no interest; aquarium: commercial; bait: ; price category: very high; price reliability: very questionable: based on ex-vessel price for species in this family Resilience: High, minimum population doubling time less than 15 months(Preliminary K or Fecundity.)
Distribution: Asia: Sri Lanka to Indonesia and north to China.
Biology: Adults inhabit freshwater streams, rivers and floodplains. Feed on mollusks, crustaceans, and other invertebrates, as well as some plant matter. May eat scales and fins (Ref. 12693). Seen in the aquarium trade but known to be aggressive with its tankmates (Ref. 12693). Aquarium keeping: needs salt; minimum aquarium size 60 cm; not recommended for home aquariums (Ref. 51539).
23 Ekim 2007 Salı
Betta Fish Breeding
Betta fish are teritorial, this is why they fight. Most often the agression and fights occur between two male Bettas, however a new female introduced into a tank can threaten the existing male’s dominate role and cause him to attack, so care must be taken when introducing Bettas.
A good way to get a male and female together for breeding is to start with them in separate tanks that are side by side, or in the same tank with a tank-divider in place to keep them apart, just so they can see and become familiar with one another before being able to interact physically. It will take between 3 and 5 days before they’re ready to be allowed to interact, and even still a close eye needs to be kept on them at first to ensure the male doesn’t feel threatened and attack.
The best time for breeding is when your Bettas are between 6 and 12 months of age. Your male should be larger than your female, and the more energy and vibrant colors your fish have the better. These are signs of healthy fish.
The bottom of your breeding tank should be bare, and the water level kept at about 5 inches deep. Your water should also have a pH level of 7.0 and be constantly kept at just about 80 degrees fahrenheit. These are the most optimal conditions for breeding, and normal healthy living for your Betta fish.
When the male is ready to breed, he will begin making a bubble nest on the surface of the water by blowing tons of tiny bubbles together. You can aid him by making sure there is a large leaf floating in the tank for his bubble nest to stick to and build out from. It can take several days for him to complete his nest.
Even though the tank bottom should be bare, you will want to ensure there is some vegetation or tank decoration available where the female can hide. Male Bettas can get very aggressive during the courtship phase, so the female needs available shelter if he becomes too rough. She’ll also need a place to hide out after she’s laid her eggs. The male Betta will handle all the caring chores for the fertilized eggs.
Once the bubble nest is complete, and the courtship has led to the male impressing the female to stimulate her into laying eggs (up to 500), the female will usually turn over (belly up) and the male will wrap himself around her as she lays the eggs. Fertilized eggs will sink to the bottom which is why having it bare will help the male at this point, because once the female finishes she will retreat to shelter and the male will begin scooping the fertilized eggs from the bottom into his mouth, and placing them on the bubble nest.
It is a good idea to remove the female from the breeding tank at this point if you can without disturbing the bubble nest. Being a devoted father, the male Betta can view the female as a threat to the eggs in the nest and attack her. Also, you will want to discontinue changing out water in the breeding tank until after the baby fish are 2 weeks old. For this reason you need to be extra careful not to overfeed the tank in order to prevent the water from clouding too much.
The eggs will hatch within a few days into fry, which wil hang down from the bubble nest for several days as the fry feed from the yolk sack. In about 3 to 4 days the fry will begin swimming around freely, and at this point you must remove the male Betta (their father) from the tank or he will turn on his young and eat them.
At this point you should begin feeding the fry twice per day, either Baby Brine Shrimp or a special baby fish food called Daphnia. Tetra can also be given to the fry, but some think it is not the best starter food for Betta fish. Just remember not to overfeed the tank or your water will cloud up quickly and place the young fish at risk.
Once the fry are two weeks old you can begin changing out the water in the breeding tank again, but be very careful as the baby Bettas will still be small and fragile.
If all has gone right, you should have a tank full of young Bettas to either separate into multiple tanks for yourself, or to separate and sell to local pet stores, or to just give to your friends and family.
For even more detailed information on Betta fish breeding, check out .Choosing the Right Fish for your Freshwater Aquarium
Most beginning aquarium owners are soon overwhelmed with the large number and variety of decisions required when setting up a new aquarium. The owner must decide on the type, size, and location of the tank; whether it will be freshwater or saltwater; live or plastic plants; types of filters, heaters, lights, and food; and a hundred other technical questions that must be answered for designing a properly operating tank. Unfortunately, the last decision that is often made concerns the type and number of fish that are going to live in the tank. When the owner does decide on buying fish it is often done based on color and appearance. As a result, many new tanks fail to thrive and many fish perish as a result. Questions to ask when choosing fish The correct way to set up a new tank (after you are sure a fish tank is right for you) is to first research and decide what type of fish you would like to have in the tank. There are over 25,000 identified species of fish and over 2,000 of these are available to the aquarist. To help narrow down your list of desirable fish, you need to consider all of the following questions about the potential candidates:-How big is the fish going to get?-If the fish gets large will it prey on or frighten smaller fish in the tank?-Is the fish too small to fit in with the other fish in the tank?-Is the fish territorial and will it require a large space of its own?-Does the fish eat other fish? Many tropical fish do.-Does it nip the fins of other fish?-Is it aggressive or is it too shy and nervous to live with certain other species?-Does it eat live plants?-Does it dig in the bottom of the tank?-What kind of water does it require (pH, hardness, temperature, etc.)?-Is it available where you live?-What does it cost?-Is it raised domestically or taken out of the wild?-Does this particular fish need to live in groups or prefer to live alone? Once you have decided what fish you would like to have in your tank, then the rest of the decisions will fall into place much easier. One of the most important steps to take is to build the aquarium around the chosen fish species, not the other way around. You will be much more successful and have healthier fish if you build your aquarium around the needs of the fish rather than around your desire to have an attractive tank. If you create an aquarium where the needs of the individual fish in the tank are placed first, it will be both healthy and beautiful.The type, size, and location of the tank will be tailored to best suit the species of fish you choose. The filtering and heating choices will be based on the type of fish you choose. The plants, lighting, food source, substrate choice will all be tailored to provide the healthiest and most natural environment for your fish species.
Seven categories of aquarium fish To repeat what I mentioned earlier, there are over 2,000 species of fish available. To help make your search for the right fish easier, I have divided the most commonly available tropical fish into 7 main categories. Each one of these categories contains fish that are similar in many of their traits, however, it should be emphasized that this listing is just an outline and there are often many unique differences between fish in the same family and individual research into each specific species should be done before making your final decision.
Catfish: There are over 2,000 species of catfish each with their own unique characteristics, but as a group none of these fish have scales. They are covered with skin or an armor-like plating. Many catfish are used as scavengers in tanks and while many species are well adapted to this, some have very different eating habits. There is probably a species of catfish that would work well in just about any type of aquarium set up. The important thing is to find the catfish that will work best in your tank. Some things to consider when choosing a catfish are:
- Some catfish can get very large (over seven feet)
- Some catfish are nocturnal and need to be fed after dark
- Some catfish are specialized feeders and are not scavengers
- Coarse, sharp substrate (gravel) can damage or irritate some of the bottom feeding catfish
- Some catfish need to live in groups
Characiforms (characins, tetras, hatchetfish, pencilfish, splash tetras): This category includes a very large number of fish that are commonly found in Africa and the Americas. Some of the smaller species are very popular in community tanks. Some of the larger ones (piranhas) are more difficult and better suited to experts. Many of these species are wild harvested.
Cichlids: This category consists of a large, very diverse number of fish that are commonly found in Africa, the tropical Americas, and Asia. The bright colors and diversity of habitat common to these species make them popular in many aquariums. The Cichlids all practice parental care, which makes them more territorial. When they are guarding their young or eggs they can be very aggressive towards any other fish in the area and may even guard their nest areas when they are not actively hatching young. This aggression makes most of them better suited to living in tanks where other species of fish are not present. However, some species (dwarf cichlids and angelfish) will live together well in a community tank if the right conditions are provided. Cypriniforms (barbs, danios, rasboras, ‘sharks,’ loaches, goldfish, koi): These fish are found in many locations throughout the world and the species include both tropical varieties and coldwater species such as the goldfish. Many of these species are popular in the aquarium because of their hardiness, ease of maintenance, and willingness to breed. Many species are sociable and do well in a community tank.Cyprinodonts (toothcarps, killifish): These fish are usually small and live and feed near the surface. The toothcarps consist of the egg layers that can be rare and difficult for beginners and the live bearers that are popular aquarium species such as guppies, mollies, swordtails, and platies.
Labyrinth Fish (gouramis, fighting fish, combtails, paradise fish): This group of fish is very popular with the aquarist. They are generally small, hardy, peaceful fish that are well suited to community aquariums with the exception of some of the aggressive males of the fighting fish, paradise fish, and both sexes of the adult combtails. Rainbowfish (rainbowfish, silversides): The fish from this family come from a variety of different habitats and the individual needs of each species should be researched. These fish tend to have an iridescent quality to their skin that makes them change colors as they move through the light. Most species are small, peaceful, and colorful, and make good additions to a community tank.
Conclusion The beginning aquarium owners will be faced with a variety of decisions. If they start with researching the individual fish and their requirements and then build their tank around the needs of the fish, they will be rewarded with a healthy, beautiful aquarium that will provide countless hours of enjoyment. References and Further ReadingBailey, M; Burgess, P. Tropical Fishlopedia. Howell Books. New York, NY; 2000. Burgess, P; Bailey, M; and Exell, A. A-Z of Tropical Fish. Howell Books. New York, NY; 1998. Burgess, WE; Axelrod, HR; Hunziker III, RE. Dr. Burgess’s Mini Atlas of Marine Aquarium Fishes. T.F.H. Publications; Neptune City, NJ; 1997.The Right Fish Tank Will Make Maintenance Much Easier
The Right Fish Tank Will Make Maintenance Much Easier
Lee Dobbins
Tanks come in every size from small bowls to giant 500 gallon aquariums. Choosing the right tank will make your aquarium experience much more enjoyable for both you and the fish, so you’ll want to pick a tank that not only looks good, but is also functional and appropriate for your needs. Ultimately the decision is up to you - here’s some pointers and tips that might help to insure you pick one that is perfect for you!
Size
The rule of thumb for size when choosing a tank is that the bigger the aquarium tank, the less maintenance you’ll need to do and the more fish you can house. If you are just starting out you should consider a 20 to 30 gallon aquarium. You might be tempted by those little fish tanks or bowls that house 1 or 2 fish with no filtration, but I will tell you that the fish will not last long in that tank and you will spend a lot of time monitoring the water quality and performing water changes. A small 5 gallon aquarium tank is fine if you don’t have a lot of space but you will have to make sure you don’t overload it with fish or your water quality and fish health will suffer. Typically you can house 1 inch of fish for every gallon of water (in a fresh water aquarium, see below for info on salt water)- that is assuming you have proper filtration and aeration. So, if you have a 20 gallon aquarium tank, you can have 20 inches of fish, or about 15 fish with the smaller 5 gallon fish tanks you will only be able to house 2 or 3 fish.
Shape
Fish tanks come in many shapes as well as sizes. The most common are hexagon and rectangular, but you can also buy rounded bubble tanks, coffee table tanks and even thin tanks that fit right in your wall! When choosing the size of your fish tanks, you’ll want to consider the location where you will place the tanks to make sure the tank will fit and won’t stick out into any traffic areas.
Rectangular fish tanks are the best for your water quality and fish health. Since rectangular tanks are long, the surface area (or area of water that is exposed to the air) is larger in ratio than fish tanks of other size and allows for better exchange of gases and, thus a healthier tank. A hexagon shaped tank, looks neat, but since it is tall the surface area is smaller. You can still have a successful hexagon shaped aquarium tank, but you will probably need to spend more time maintaining the water and may not be able to house as many fish as you can in a rectangular fish tank that holds that same amount of water.
If you don’t have the room for a large fish tank we recommend this Eclipse 12 gallon aquarium tank as a nice mid-size tank with the added bonus of coming equipped with filtration and lighting. It has a pleasing curved front an measures 21″L x 11″W x 18″H.
If space is no issue, buy the largest tank you can afford - you’re water quality will be better insuring fish health and you’ll be able to keep more fish in it!
Want to start small? Try an Eclipse 5 Gallon Hexagon - comes with filtration and lighting!
Location
When choosing your fish tanks, it is important to think about it’s location in your home. If you are trying to add zest to an empty corner, a hexagon shaped tank might be ideal, but a long rectangular tank could make a great focal point along a wall. If just want to keep 1 fish as a conversation piece on a little shelf or bathroom vanity a fun decorative tank might be the way to go. Either way, be sure that you take the weight of the tank into consideration (a filled aquarium can weigh 12 pounds per gallon so a filled 20 gallon tank can weight over 200 pounds) and place it an area that can hold the weight as well as on the appropriate stand.
Acrylic or Glass?
Glass weighs more but is less expensive. Acrylic scratches easier but can be more aesthetically pleasing.
So which one is right for you?
Basically, it’s a matter of personal preference. Either one will do the job just as well as the other. Glass aquariums are held together by glass sealer, sometimes that sealer can wear out and spring a leak, but this can be fixed by adding more sealer - if you can find the leaking spot. Acrylic aquariums will rarely develop a leak, but can be scratched. However scratches on acrylic fish tanks can be removed or lightened whereas scratches, although much less likely, cannot be removed from glass. Having said that, you can avoid ever getting a scratch on your acrylic aquarium tank with just a bit of care - I’ve had one for years and have no scratches on it at all. Acrylic is 17 times stronger than glass and more flexible, thus resistant to shattering and the seamless construction and sleek lines give it a much more pleasing look. Due to this construction, acrylic fish tanks will probably last much longer than glass tanks so this fact combined with the fact that most acrylic fish tanks come with the hood and lighting added into the price (glass tanks do not) should offset the higher price of the acrylic aquarium tank. One other thing to remember with acrylic fish tanks - never use an ammonia cleaner While it’s probably a bad idea to use an ammonia cleaner near any fish tank, ammonia will crystalize the acrylic so stick to milder cleaning agents like vinegar and water.
Freshwater or Saltwater?
While saltwater fish tanks house more colorful fish, they are a bit more expensive both in setup and fish price. Although saltwater are less forgiving when water quality is not maintained, the overall maintenance of a saltwater tank (after initial setup) is not much more than that of a fresh water tank. For saltwater fish tanks, you will need a absolute minimum of a 20 gallon tank - in saltwater aquariums, the water quality is very important so the bigger the tank the better. Therfore, if you don’t have room for at least a 20 gallon tank, better stick with fresh water. I recommend a 55 gallon tank for the best saltwater aquarium experience. Salt water fish tanks will only house about 1/4 as many fish as fresh water, so a 55 gallon salt water aquarium tank will house about 15″ of fish (or about 7 or 8 fish) where fresh water fish tanks of the same size will house about 55″ of fish (or about 30 fish). Since you should have excellent filtration and a protein skimmer in order to make your saltwater fish tanks a success, you’ll probably spend more on it that you would a fresh water tank and, while not necessary, the decorations in that tank can be more expensive especially if you choose live rock and expensive substrate. Finally, since water quality in salt water tanks is paramount, and there is more things to test for, you will probably be spending more on test kits for your salt water fish tanks.
Once you have weighed the difference in startup and fish costs against the beauty of the saltwater fish and purchased and setup your tank, your tank will go through it’s cycling process just like a fresh water tank. The only difference in the salt water fish tanks is that due to the fragile nature of the fish, you may want to monitor the tank more closely than you would a fresh water tank. After the cycle is complete, you can fall back to regular maintenance that should take no more time than a fresh water tank would and includes partial water changes every month, and algae scraping once a week.
