All Aquarium Fish

Melanochromis sp. "Blotch"

2008-02-24T11:14:00.000-08:00

This fish has not yet been assigned a species name.

Scientific name: Melanochromis sp. "Blotch"
Size: 4-5" (10-12.5cm)
Origin: Lake Malawi, East Africa
Tank setup: A large tank with many rock caves
Compatibility: Combine with other mbuna species
Temperature: 23-28oC (73-82oF)
Water chemistry: Hard and alkaline: pH 7.6-8.6 ; GH 7 ; KH 10-12
Feeding: Carnivorous: feed live, frozen and flake foods.
Breeding: Mouthbrooder, see general article linked below.

Melanochromis Chipokae

2008-02-24T11:05:00.000-08:00

+

Scientific name: Melanochromis chipokae
Size: 4" (10cm)
Tank setup: A large tank with many rock caves
Origin: Lake Malawi, East Africa
Compatibility: Can be very aggressive, combine with larger and more aggressive mbuna species. Do not keep more than one male (or similar males of other Melanochromis). Ideally, at least three females should be kept, to prevent constant harassment of a single female.
Water chemistry: Hard and alkaline: pH 7.6-8.6 ; GH 7 plus ; KH 10-12
Temperature: 23-28oC (73-82oF)
Sexing: Colouration in juveniles is identical, and similar to M. auratus, but males become much darker in colour (see photo).
Feeding: Carnivorous: feed frozen/live foods along with flake/granular foods.
Breeding: Mouthbrooder, see general article linked below.

Melanochromis Auratus, Malawi Golden Cichlid

2008-02-24T10:58:00.000-08:00

Scientific name: Melanochromis auratus
Common name: Malawi golden cichlid
Origin: Lake Malawi, East Africa
Size: 4" (10cm)
Tank setup: A large tank with many rock caves
Compatibility: Can be very aggressive, combine with other larger mbuna species. It is not advisable to keep more than one male (or similar males of other Melanochromis). At least three females should be kept, to prevent constant harassment of a single female.
Water chemistry: Hard and alkaline: pH 7.6-8.6 ; GH 7 plus ; KH 10-12
Temperature: 23-28oC (73-82oF)
Feeding: Feeds on algae and the organisms within it. Will accept most aquarium foods, include a vegetable component in the diet.
Breeding: Mouthbrooder, see general article linked below.
Sexing: Colouration in juveniles is identical, but older males show much darker colour.

Labidochromis Caeruleus

2008-02-21T21:06:00.000-08:00

The Yellow Labidochromis is a mainstay in the hobby. I have never gone into a pet store that sells fish, and not seen it for sale. this is for a very good reason. The Yellow Labidochromis is a beautiful fish, with a rich golden-yellow color with dark blue-black fins. Everyone can see the beauty of this fish. This fish has been around a while, being first typed by fryer in 1956. The fish that the species was originally described from was white, with blue fins. This fish gets its' name from the blue fins, as caeruleus means blue in Latin. Electric Yellows have a lot of different location types, each yielding change. Probably one of the most commonly kept and easily recognized of the Malawi mbuna. This species is not overly aggressive, and should mix well with other low to medium aggression mbuna.

Common name: Yellow lab, Electric yellow, Canary cichlid
Scientific name: Labidochromis caeruleus
Size: 4" (10cm)
Origin: Lake Malawi, East Africa
Tank setup: Typical rocky Malawi tank
Temperature: 23-28oC (73-82oF)
Compatibility: Combine with other mbuna species, not overly aggressive.
Water chemistry: Hard and alkaline: pH 7.6-8.6 ; GH 7 plus ; KH 10-12
Feeding: Small crustaceans and insect larvae, will accept most aquarium foods. More omnivorous than many mbuna, but the diet should still include a strong vegetable component.
Sexing: There is no obvious colour difference between males and females, but males may show more black on the fins, particularly the ventral fins. They may also exhibit a brownish patch in the area between the eye and mouth.
Breeding: Mouthbrooder. There is no defined territory for spawning.

Iodotropheus Sprengerae

2008-02-21T20:59:00.000-08:00

This species is not particularly aggressive and may be bullied by more aggressive tankmates. The base colour of this species is brown, but with the right feeding, the adults should develop an attractive purple sheen.

Common name: Rusty cichlid
Scientific name: Iodotropheus sprengerae
Size: 3-4" (7.5-10cm)
Origin: Lake Malawi, East Africa
Compatibility: Combine with other mbuna species, which are not too aggressive.
Tank setup: Typical mbuna tank with many rock caves
Water chemistry: Hard and alkaline: pH 7.6-8.6 ; GH 7 plus ; KH 10-12
Temperature: 23-28oC (73-82oF)
Feeding: Omnivorous: feed live, frozen and flake foods.
Sexing: Colour is identical, but males have clear egg-spots and a longer anal fin.
Breeding: Mouthbrooder. Spawning may produce between 5 and 60 eggs.

Dimidiochromis Compressiceps

2008-02-18T21:23:00.000-08:00

Common name: Malawi Eye-biter
Scientific name: Dimidiochromis compressiceps
Synonyms: Haplochromis compressiceps
Origin: Lake Malawi, East Africa
Size: Up to 10" (25cm)
Tank setup: A large tank (suggest 100 gallons plus if kept with other fish) with some rock caves and plenty of open swimming space. Plants such as Vallis can be added.
Compatibility: Predatory towards small fishes. Combine with other open-water Malawi species which are not too aggressive, such as Copadochromis and Aulonocara.
Water chemistry: Hard and alkaline: pH 7.6-8.6 ; GH 7 plus ; KH 10-12
Temperature: 23-28oC (73-82oF)
Feeding: Predator, feed a meaty diet.
Sexing: Males are much more colourful, females are mainly silver.
Breeding: The male may dig a shallow spawning pit and display to attract the female to it. A mouthbrooder, the female will incubate the eggs and fry for about 3 weeks. The male is likely to eat the fry once released. Feed fry on small frozen/live foods such as baby brine shrimp, cyclops and daphnia.
Comments: As the name implies, this cichlid has a strikingly compressed shape. Despite its common name, it is unlikely to take the eyes of tankmates when fed regularly.

Copadochromis Borleyi

2008-02-18T21:22:00.000-08:00

Scientific name: Copadochromis borleyi
Common name: Redfin haplochromis
Synonyms: Haplochromis borleyi
Size: 10" (25cm)
Origin: Lake Malawi, East Africa
Tank setup: A large tank (suggest 100 gallons plus) with some rock caves and plenty of open swimming space. Plants such as Vallis can be added.
Compatibility: Combine with other Malawi species which are not too aggressive, such as similar sized 'Hap' species, or less aggressive mbuna in larger tanks.
Water chemistry: Hard and alkaline: pH 7.6-8.6 ; GH 7 plus ; KH 10-12
Temperature: 23-28oC (73-82oF)
Sexing: Males are more colourful, females are relatively drab.
Feeding: Micropredator, feed flake and frozen foods.
Breeding: Mouthbrooder. The spawning site is usually a smooth flat boulder.

Trichogaster Trichopterus

2008-02-17T21:01:00.000-08:00

Scientific name: Trichogaster trichopterus
Common name: Blue gourami, Two/Three-spot gourami, Opaline gourami, Gold gourami, etc.
Origin: S.E. Asia
Size: Up to 6" (15cm), but usually smaller.
Tank setup: Planted tank with gentle circulation and some floating plants
Compatibility: Can be territorial with other gouramies, and sometimes with other tankmates.
Water chemistry: Not critical: soft to medium hard, pH 6.0-8.5
Temperature: 22-28oC (72-82oF)
Feeding: Omnivorous, most foods accepted
Sexing: Males have a pointed dorsal fin.
Breeding: Bubble nest builder. Pairs may become aggressive towards tankmates when spawning.
Generally easy to breed. Remove female after spawning, as the male will guard the bubble-nest and fry.
Comments: This is a hardy fish which will tolerate a range of conditions. They have been bred in several colour forms, hence the multitude of common names.

Trichogaster Microlepis

2008-02-17T20:53:00.000-08:00

Scientific name: Trichogaster microlepis
Common name(s): Moonlight gourami, Moonbeam gourami, Thin-lipped gourami
Origin: S.E. Asia
Size: 6" (15cm)
Tank setup: Planted tank with gentle circulation and some floating plants
Compatibility: Normally quite peaceful, but may become territorial with other gouramies or similar fish.
Water chemistry: Not critical: soft to medium hard, pH 6.2-7.8
Temperature: 25-29oC (77-84oF)
Feeding: Omnivorous, most foods accepted
Breeding: Bubble nest builder. The male will care for the fry for the first few days.
Sexing: Pelvic fins of males may show orange-red colour, in females it is yellow
Comments: Although not as colourful as other members of the genus, this is still a striking fish. A well planted tank with other peaceful and slow-swimming species is ideal.

Trichogaster Leeri, Pearl Gourami

2008-02-15T17:14:00.000-08:00

Common name(s): Pearl gourami, Lace gourami, Mosaic gourami
Scientific name: Trichogaster leeri
Size: Up to 5" (12.5cm)
Origin: S.E. Asia: penisular Malaysia, Thailand, Borneo, Sumatra
Tank setup: Planted tank with gentle circulation and some floating plants
Compatibility: Normally quite peaceful, but may become territorial with other gouramies or similar fish.
Temperature: 23-28oC (73-82oF)
Water chemistry: Not critical: soft to medium hard, pH 6.5-8.0
Feeding: Omnivorous, most foods accepted
Sexing: Males have a pointed dorsal fin and extended fin rays on anal fin.
Males in breeding colour also show more red on the underside.
Breeding: Bubble nest builder. Pairs may become aggressive towards tankmates when spawning.
Comments: In full breeding colour, this fish is very striking and surely amongst the most beautiful of freshwater tropical fish.

Osphronemus Laticlavius, Giant Red Fin Gourami

2008-02-15T17:10:00.000-08:00

Common name: Giant red fin gourami, Red-tail gourami
Scientific name: Osphronemus laticlavius
Origin: S.E. Asia
Size: Up to 20" (50cm)
Compatibility: Can be territorial, combine with other large robust fish.
Tank setup: A very large tank (5x2x2' minimum for an adult), with minimal robust decor
Temperature: 22-28oC (72-82oF)
Water chemistry: Not critical: soft to medium hard, pH 6.2-7.8
Feeding: Omnivorous, almost any foods accepted - pellet foods ideal as a staple, include some green foods. May eat small fish.
Breeding: Unknown - likely to be similar to the Giant gourami (O. goramy)
Sexing: Unknown
Comments: This species was described relatively recently, in the 1990's, and has previously been rare in the aquarium trade.

Osphronemus Goramy, Giant Gourami

2008-02-15T17:02:00.000-08:00

Scientific name: Osphronemus goramy
Common name(s): Giant gourami, Common gourami, Goramy
Origin: S.E. Asia
Size: Up to 28" (70cm)
Tank setup: A very large tank (6x2x2' minimum for an adult), with minimal robust decor
Compatibility: Juveniles can be quite territorial, but adults become less aggressive, and can be combined with other large fish.
Temperature: Wide range tolerated: 20-30oC (68-86oF)
Water chemistry: Not critical; soft to medium hard, pH 6.2-7.8
Sexing: The dorsal and anal fins are more pointed in males
Feeding: Omnivorous, almost any foods accepted - pellet foods ideal as a staple, include some green foods.
Breeding: Reported to build a bubble nest using plant material. Eggs take about 2 days to hatch. The male will the eggs and fry.
Comments: Juveniles of this fish are fairly commonly found for sale, but it should be noted just how large this fish becomes! It will eventually require a very large tank and an excellent filtration system.

Macropodus Opercularis, Paradise fish

2008-02-13T06:07:00.000-08:00

Easy to keep in larger community tanks, a dark soil and some plants bring out the colors better although it's no prerequisite. The fish are extremely hardy and will adapt to virtually every surrounding and water values. Since full grown fish can be extremely aggressiv among eachother but also towards other fish, they shouldn't be kept with fragile peacefull fish. If they start to breed in a community tank they will completely terrorise the tank, and attack all fish approaching the nest. If they attack they usually go straight for the eyes of the intruder, and sometimes you will see fish with only one eye swimming around in community tanks with M. opercularis. Since the fish jump well, the tank should be covered.

Although the fish will reproduce in community tanks, breeding is best done in a large 80 cm breeding tank with lowered waterlevel, at higher temperatures(23-25 degrees). Between 100 and 500 floating eggs are produced, after which the female should be removed. If no hiding places are available in smaller tanks the male will sometimes kill the female. Eggs will hatch in 2-4 days, depending on the temperature. Fry are extremely small and can only be fed with infusoria in the beginning.

Common name: Paradise fish
Origin: E. Asia, China, Korea, Taiwan, Hai-nan, Malakka and on Ryukyu, in slow flowing or standing, usually shallow water with dark soil. In Southern Spain and in Florida(USA) introduced populations exist.
Tank setup: Fairly large tank, with refuges for females and gentle circulation.
Compatibility: Community, but males may be aggressive.
Temperature: 13-26 degrees, but also beyond these boundaries.
Feeding: Omnivore: feed flake, frozen and live foods. Will eat all given food including small fish!
Water chemistry: Not critical; fairly soft to hard, pH 6.0-8.0
Sexing: Males have brighter colours and much longer fins than females
Breeding: Bubble nest builder. Eggs hatch in about a day and are usually guarded by the male.
Comments: Several colour forms of this species exist.

Helostoma Temminkii

2008-02-11T19:44:00.001-08:00

Common name(s): Kissing gourami, Kissing fish
Scientific name: Helostoma temminkii
Size: Up to 12" (30cm), but usually much smaller (around 6"/15cm).
Origin: Southeast Asia, particularly Thailand and Java
Tank setup: A larger tank with robust plants and plenty of open swimming space.
Compatibility: Community, but can be territorial
Temperature: 22-30oC (72-86oF)
Water chemistry: Not critical: soft to very hard, pH 6.5-8.5
Feeding: Omnivorous, most foods accepted, include vegetable matter.
Sexing: The sexes are virtually impossible to distinguish.
Breeding: Higher end of the temperature range required for breeding. May build a bubblenest, there is no brood care. Eggs hatch in around 24 hours.
Comments: The mouth-locking which gives rise to the common name is actually contests of strength between males, but no damage is usually done. A golden colour variety is also available. The natural colour is greenish-grey.

Ctenopoma Acutirostre

2008-02-11T06:17:00.000-08:00

Scientific name: Ctenopoma acutirostre
Common name(s): Spotted climbing perch, Leopard Ctenopoma, Spotted Ctenopoma, Bushfish
Size: Up to 8" (20cm), but usually smaller.
Origin: Africa, Congo basin.
Tank setup: Planted tank with moderate water movement and lower lighting level.
Compatibility: Predatory. May be timid with larger or more aggressive fish.
Temperature: 23-28oC (73-82oF)
Water chemistry: Fairly soft, slightly acidic to around neutral (pH 6.0 -7.5)
Feeding: Carnivore; live and frozen foods, may take flake food.
Sexing: Males have spines on the body.
Breeding: Bubble-nest builder. Very soft and acidic water required. Little brood care occurs. An increase in water temperature may trigger spawning.
Comments: Not an aggressive fish, but it should not be kept with small community fish, due to its predatory habits.

Cinnamon Dwarf Gourami, Colisa ialia

2008-02-09T05:56:00.000-08:00

Male Female

Common name: Dwarf gourami

Scientific name: Colisa lalia

Size: 2" (5cm)

Origin: India

Tank setup: Planted tank with gentle circulation and some floating plants

Compatibility: Normally peaceful, but may become territorial with other gouramies or similar fish.

Temperature: 22-28oC (72-82oF)

Water chemistry: Good water quality required, soft to medium hard, pH 6.5-7.5

Feeding: Omnivorous, most foods accepted, include plenty of vegetable matter.

Sexing: Males are generally larger, and more colourful; females tend to be silvery.

Breeding: Bubble nest builder. Remove female after spawning.
The male will guard the eggs and fry, and should be removed when they are free swimming.

Comments: Best kept in pairs in a peaceful, well planted aquarium. A variety of colour forms have been produced, including 'Blood red' (pictured), 'Neon blue', etc.

This gourami is a beautiful peaceful fish that is available in the blue striped variety, blood red, as well as the cobalt blue. Males are generally bigger and colourful, whereas the females are small and rather bland in colouration. Best kept in pairs, the dwarf gourami is territorial among individuals of the same species as well as other fish that resemble it.

Dwarf gouramis require good water quality in a planted aquarium. They do best on good quality flake, as well as live and frozen food. They make an interesting tank mates to delicate species and are interesting to watch as they swim around chasing each other. The dwarf gourami is easily bred. Bred in a 40l tank, filled halfway, with lots of floating plants. Increase the water temperature slightly, and watch as the male begins constructing a bubble nest. The male wraps around the female and spawning take place. The female must be removed, as the male`s paternal instinct takes over, as he may turn on her and even kill her.

Aquatic Pets & Water Restrictions

2008-02-01T05:06:00.000-08:00

With drought conditions initiating water restrictions,many pet owners are being affected. For those people keeping fish in aquariums and ponds the role that water plays in your pet's well being is paramount. Understanding your local laws and becoming water wise is all it takes to stay in control.

Local councils have provisions in place to ensure the humane upkeep of animals is possible even if plants are dying. Check with your local council for your entitlements and obligations as a pet owner.

Ponds and fountains that house fish can often be topped up for the sake of the inhabitants. Where practical it is best to keep all of the fish in as few ponds as possible to reduce strain on water infrastructure. Plants and filtration can also be added to reduce the burden of ponds that require water changes.

Aquariums are subject to less frequent restrictions as they are indoors. You and your fish will both be familiar with the mains water you are accustomed to using. However tap water may be replaced with other sources for your fish keeping needs At some stage.

If you begin doing your water changes and top ups with rainwater be sure to add some degree of hardness. Rainwater is lacking the dissolved minerals that make your regular water suitable for many fish. Around cities water from the sky may have collected air pollutants making it unsuitable for delicate aquarium fish.

Keeping these water wise ideas in mind will allow you and your fish to make it through all but the harshest water restrictions you might face.

Biological Loading

2008-02-01T05:05:00.000-08:00

How many fish can my aquarium hold?

Biological loading is a term you may remember from high school science. You probably did a field trip to a storm drain where you took some water samples for analysis.

This concept has practical meaning for aquarium keepers. Biological loading is a system for measuring an ecosystem's wastes and required resources in relation to how many inhabitants it can support. For the aquarium (an ecosystem) it determines the number of organisms that can be kept within the fish tank.

It is safe to say that the larger an aquarium is the more fish it can hold. As a general rule it is often said that an aquarium's fish capacity is equal to 7cm of fish per liter of water. In biological loading terms 7cm of fish per liter of water is the maximum loading the ecosystem can sustain. The aquarium stocked at this level would be said to have a high biological loading.

Unfortunately 7cm of fish per liter is not a good measure for determining fish capacity as it does not take into account the specific filtration method, water temperature, fish growth and other limiting factors. To accurately determine the precise maximum biological loading would be a complex process. An understanding of the principals of biological loading can help prevent and troubleshoot aquarium problems however.

The main things to consider are dissolved oxygen and dissolved Nitrogen componds. Doing the following things will increase your maximum biological loading, allowing you to safely keep more fish.

Agitate the surface of the water. This is were the majority of oxygen will enter the water.
Cooler water can hold more oxygen. Keeping the water at the bottom of your fish's preferred range will allow more oxygen to be available.
Do water changes of at least 25% weekly to remove nitrate. Do not change to much or you may upset the useful bacteria.
Activated carb

ediately. Sometimes less is more.

Also remember to consider the social needs of the individual species. Breeding fish, cold water fish and aggressive fish will all need more space. This can not be provided by a tank with maximum biological loading.

Aquarium Maturation

2008-01-31T14:37:00.001-08:00

Aquarium Water Cycling

During the maturation stage your aquarium water will undergo some chemical changes as bacteria levels increase.

Aquarium maturation is complete when bacteria have colonized the filtration system, gravel and other surfaces.

These bacteria oxidize highly toxic ammonia into less harmful nitrogen compounds.

It is a two step process where different varieties of bacteria facilitate the reactions.

Ammonia > Nitrite > Nitrate

Nitrosomas bacteria begin the process by using ammonia and releasing nitrite. Nitrobacter use this nitrite and release nitrate. Both of these bacteria require oxygen to complete these reactions making them aerobic in nature. When considered collectively these micro-organisms are often referred to as nitrifying bacteria.

There are several methods to help speed up this aquarium maturation process. These may be useful but are not essential. If you have a friend with a matured aquarium it is time to go for a visit. Check that there is no sickness or algae in their tank. By borrowing a small amount of filter material from the older aquarium it will act as seed for your new filter. Keep the filter material submerged in water from the old tank and prevent temperature fluctuations while transporting. Aquarium water can also be borrowed to give your aquarium a head start.

These methods will be most effective where the original aquarium has similar water conditions to your new fish tank. Temperature and PH fluctuations can upset useful bacteria as much as they can affect fish. Adjust your aquarium water to match the old tank then gradually change PH as required.

Commercial aquarium bacteria starters are available also. These are often dried powders made from the spores of selected bacterial strains. After adding these bacteria to the aquarium the maturation period can be reduced.

During the aquarium maturation process you will notice some visual changes in your water quality. Water may become clouded in the beginning but should change to crystal clear with time.

Ensuring an aquarium has sufficiently matured requires patience, but following these water cycling techniques will reward you with the best environment for your new fish.

http://www.e-aquarium.com.au/aquarium_maturation.htm

Aquarium Heaters

2008-01-31T14:37:00.000-08:00

Heating Devices For Fish An aquarium heater is a device that is used to keep the temperature of an aquarium above a given temperature. With the help of these heaters, you can keep a range of tropical fish in cooler climates.

Even in warmer climates a heater should still be used. This is because the aquarium water temperature can fluctuate with the difference between night and day. A fish's metabolism and respiratory systems work much better in such constant temperatures. Although a fish subjected to temperature fluctuations may not immediately die, they will live longer with a constant daily temperature. Aquarium Heater Safety Water and electricity do not mix so safety is paramount when it comes to aquarium heaters. Always use a submersible heating device designed for the aquarium or you may be risking your safety. Never plug in an immersion heater before it is in the water. It will get got enough to shatter very quickly. For the same reason always wait 30 minutes after turning a heater off before removing it from the fish tank. If you even see any condensation inside a glass immersion heater throw it away or return it immediately. If water can seep in the unit may pose an electrical safety hazard for you or your fish. Any style of heater showing deterioration of the casing should also be discarded as such devises are not safe to repair. Varieties of Aquarium Heaters There are many types of aquarium heaters but they can be broadly be classified as glass immersion heaters and under gravel heating. How it works depends on the particular aquarium heater but all use electricity which heats an element encased in a waterproof shell. Glass Immersion Heaters Most aquarium heaters belong to the immersion style of heating category. These heaters consist of submersible glass or stainless steel tubes that contains a heating element wound around a glass or ceramic insert.

Most modern immersion heaters are fully submersible. The thermostat control is placed at the top of the unit for easy access above the water. They have an adjustable thermostat that turns the heating element up or down to meet your desired temperature. The thermostats contain a bimetallic strip. In such devices strip contains two metals. The metals expand at different rates and this forms the basis of the thermostat mechanism.

When choosing an immersion heater it is important to know the volume of your fish tank. A given heater will be rated by how many watts of electricity it consumes. The larger the aquarium the greater the wattage required. If the difference between your room temperature and the desired aquarium temperature is large then this will also demand a higher wattage. Each manufacturer will usually have a recommendation on the packaging.

Such immersion heaters usually have a mark which must be covered by water for correct functioning. If left partially uncovered by water the heating device may overheat, killing the fish and damaging the heater.

After use for sometime a thick scale may develop. This hard mineral plaque can be safely removed using steel wool.

Some aquarium heaters are quite poorly made with elements that burn out after a few months use. This is one aquarium device that requires a better quality product if you are serious about your fish as heater failure often results in mortality. Titanium Aquarium Heater Aquarium heaters made with titanium elements are the reliable but expensive style of immersion heater. The element is virtually unbreakable, it is not going to shatter if bumped while hot. There is also no glass to shatter as the outer casing will be completely metallic.

The materials used also gives a titanium heater superior conduction as well as resistance to oxidization. The low reactivity makes these ideal heaters to use with corrosive marine aquarium water or less reactive fresh water.

When selecting a titanium aquarium heater make sure you have purchased an all in one unit. Some will have the thermostat separate rather than built in. Most aquarium keepers find the all in one style meets their heating needs best. Undergravel Cable Heater Aquariums can also achieve increased temperature via a flexible heating cable. These cables consist of an element coated in a thick flexible rubber. The cable can be buried beneath the aquarium substrate. This type of heating is popular for planted aquariums. Heating the aquarium substrate allows a gentle flow of water through the gravel. Plants benefit by being able to uptake more nutrients from the circulating water. Under Tank Heating or Heating Mats Aquaria can also be heated using heating mats. These mats are placed beneath the aquarium itself. These mats are made up of a synthetic material concealing a heating element. This style of aquarium heater is generally not suitable for very large aquariums. They are useful when you have a series of smaller aquariums that are not large enough for an immersion heater.Aquarium Heater Prices There is traditionally a gross mark up on aquarium heaters sold from pet stores. It is well worth looking for yours online where cheap aquarium heaters are more common.Choosing the Correct Aquarium Heater The strength of an aquarium heater is determined by it's wattage. The larger an aquarium is the higher the wattage will be required.

The other main factor in choosing is the difference between the room temperature and the heat you would like the aquarium water to be. As the temperature difference increases so to does the recommended heater wattage. The increase in wattage is not as steep in the larger aquariums due to the lower surface area to volume ratio conserving more heat.

This is just a guide as your own aquarium may vary somewhat. Factors such as lights and lids will impact on the heater strength required Multiple Aquarium Heaters Although one can be adequate their are advantages to using multiple aquarium heaters. Inevitably a heater has a limited lifespan and will break at some stage in the future. When this happens it can be catastrophic for temperature sensitive fish. If there are multiple heaters the remaining heater can take up some of the load while a replacement aquarium heater is purchased.

Multiple heaters in the aquarium are also practical when it comes to heat distribution. When the heat source is concentrated in one area an aquarium can develop hot and cold spots. This is especially the case in calm aquariums with limited water movement. Place an immersion heater at each end of a long aquarium where turbulence can not be increased. Estimated Heater Size For The Different Aquarium Volumes & Heating Loads

Aquarium Volume	5ºC / 9ºF	10ºC / 18ºF	15ºC / 27ºF
5 gallon / 20 Litres	25 Watt	50 Watt	75 Watt
10 gallon / 40 Litres	50 watt	75 watt	100 watt
20 gallon / 75 Litres	75 Watt	100 watt	150 Watt
40 gallon / 150 Litres	200 Watt	150 Watt	200 Watt
50 gallon / 200 Litres	250 watt	300 watt	2 x 200 watt
75 gallon / 300 Litres	2 x 200 watt	2 x 250 watt	2 x 300 watt

Aquarium Water Hardness

2008-01-31T04:21:00.000-08:00

Hardness of water is related to the quantities of dissolved minerals it contains. In fish tanks the hardness level is important as each aquarium fish has an optimal range in which it should live. When hardness levels are low the aquarium is said to have soft water.

In a fish's natural habitat the water hardness is primarily determined by the geographical features of the catchment area in which it lives. Runoff containing limestone and other rock minerals will add hardness to the creek or lake in which it collects. Vegetated areas such as rainforests generally produce soft water creeks and rivers.

The water available to your home is also influenced in the same way. Domestic mains water is always harder than the water collected directly from falling rain. Once you know your local water hardness it will rarely vary in the future.

Temporary Hardness

Some agents which contribute to hardness can be removed through reactions within the aquarium environment. Dissolved carbonates are often the cause. This carbonate hardness (KH) acts as a buffer on the water pH. As long as there is dissolved carbonate above 3 degrees of KH the pH will be stabilised in the alkaline range.

Permanent Hardness

Even more important for aquarium fish is the permanent hardness value. This is usually linked to the calcium and magnesium levels within the water. It is also known as general hardness (GH).

This is the more important form of hardness because it is not fluctuating with any pH changes. When measuring and adjusting it should be permanent hardness that is concentrated on.

Measuring Water Hardness

Though all freshwater aquarium owners should monitor water hardness it rarely happens in most homes. This is because of the need testing equipment. For some the cost of an electronic general hardness meter will be more than the cost of the aquarium. Chemical tests are also available that are not as expensive.

You can use a local resources to have your water hardness determined. City councils should have a good idea of what the tap water hardness should be in your area. Contact the water department and ask to speak with someone who tests the water for the best opinion. For specific hardness readings you can take a sample to your local pet shop who should be happy to test it for free.

There are numerous ways of quantifying the hardness level. In aquariums the degrees of hardness scale (DH) is the most commonly used but referring to it in parts per million is also useful for accurately applying adjustment dosage.

Adjusting Water Hardness

It is a lot easier to increase hardness than it is to reduce it. For this reason it can simplify matters if you choose fish suited to your local water conditions.

Manufacturing your own soft water can be done using a reverse osmosis filter but these are prohibitively expensive for the hobby fish keeper. Devices that remove hardness using ionic exchange can also be obtained.

Where practical, soft water fish are best kept in adjusted rainwater. This will not be possible in areas of significant air pollution however. Filtering tap water through peat should be used in such cases. Box filters can be packed with the dry material and the hardness will be removed as it passes through the filter. Demineralised water can also be used if required.

Increasing hardness can be achieved by using products such as calcium carbonate, magnesium sulphate or calcium sulphate powders. When administering these products they may not immediately dissolve. A white sediment may settle on plants and ornaments but this will dissipate over a few days. Some clouding may also be experienced from the suspension of fine particles.

Degrees of Water Hardness	mg/l or ppm Calcium Carbonate	General Description
0 - 3	0 - 54	very soft
3 - 6	54 - 108	soft
6 - 12	108 - 216	slightly hard
12 - 18	216 - 324	moderately hard
18 - 30	324 - 540	hard
30 +	540 +	very hard

To convert a DH measurement to the parts per million scale multiply the DH by 17.9. If you know your local water's hardness you can use this information to add the correct amount of calcium carbonate to your water.

The steps to follow are:

1. Determine your aquarium volume.

2. Subtract your Current DH from the goal DH to calculate the number of DH units needed.

3. Multiply this figure by 17.9 to convert it to ppm.

4. Multiply the ppm required by the aquarium volume to calculate the total mg required.

5. Divide the mg value by 1000 for the total number of calcium carbonate grams required.

Volume x ( [Current DH - Goal DH] x 17.9) divided by 1000 = grams required

For example if you have a 100 liter aquarium and your tap water is 10DH, and you wanted 15DH water it would take:

100 x ([15 -10] x 17.9) / 1000 = 8.95 grams

Decorative limestone rocks and coral substrates can also help to manage the water hardness. They will gradually dissolve over time rather than the sudden increase produced by powders. Using such materials in the aquarium is an excellent strategy where hard water fish are kept.

Aquarium Temperature

2008-01-31T04:20:00.000-08:00

Fish are ectotherms or poikilotherms which simply means they are cold blooded. As a cold blooded animal fish are dependant upon the aquarium water temperature to regulate their metabolism. If you are not keeping an aquarium within the correct temperature range a fish's health will suffer.

Generally tropical freshwater and reef marine aquariums are maintained at a particular range of temperature. It falls in the 22-30 degree Celsius range depending on the species kept and their origins. Below 22 degrees Celsius is the desired temperature for cold water fish.

Temperature is sometimes raised or lowered under certain conditions. Most fish require a drop or rise in temperature to initiate breeding. This action mimics a change in season which coaxes the fish into spawning. Temperature is sometimes also raised or lowered while treating an illness or using a particular medication.

There are two devices designed for regulating the temperature of an aquarium. These are known as aquarium heaters and aquarium chillers. Generally only one of these devices will be required depending on weather the water needs to be kept above or below the room temperature.

Temperature can be monitored using an immersed thermometer or a stick on thermometer. Either will be accurate enough to monitor the fish's environment. Digital thermometers with alarms are also available for aquariums that require accuracy and safety.

During a prolonged power failure your fish may become at risk of leaving the optimum temperature range. In such situations it is convenient to keep pieces of polystyrene sheeting that can be taped on the outside of the aquarium until the power returns. Such insulation should cover the top of the aquarium while allowing some air flow onto the water surface.

The Advantages Of Freshwater Aquaria

2008-01-30T15:52:00.003-08:00

The Problems With Marine Aquariums

There is no doubt that marine aquariums can be incredibly spectacular. The range of brightly coloured saltwater fish and corals can be used to recreate amazing miniature reefs. Such aquariums are often the original inspiration for people to purchase their first fish tank.

Unfortunately marine aquariums have many disadvantages that may not be obvious to the potential fish owner. This article is aimed at those new fish owners who have stopped to consider what type of aquarium they will choose.

Marine Aquarium Cost

The luxury nature of saltwater aquaria places these fish homes at the top of the price pyramid. Setting up a freshwater aquarium can be expensive, but the costs involved with marine fish tanks are consistently less affordable. If you are an aspiring Deuce Bigalow looking for a new way to flaunt your money then maybe marine aquariums are for you. Your local pet shop knows marine aquariums can be a symbol of wealth and is more than happy to charge accordingly. Equipment must be made from materials that can withstand the corrosive nature of the saltwater. Approach any marine aquarium purchase with an open mind, and an open wallet.

The Empty Nest

A favourite aspect of fish keeping is watching the miracle of reproduction. There is nothing more enjoyable than seeing a new batch of guppies grow into their adult colours or witnessing a doting convict parent heard it's young. If these sound like pass times you might also enjoy, then you may be disappointed with a marine aquarium. There are only a small handful of saltwater fish that are bred in captivity. These marine species that do reproduce, will not breed easily like many freshwater fish.

Ethics

Due to the rare captive reproduction of marine fish most are collected from natural reef ecosystems. This places strain on the environments from which the fish originate. The marine capture methods used in some foreign countries can be very destructive. Flooding the reef with poisons can make fish capture simple but needlessly kills other organisms. On the other hand most freshwater fish species are produced for the aquarium trade in artificial environments.

Plants

Marine aquariums are not for you if you have ambitions of exercising your aquatic green thumb. Perhaps you could grow some kelp but don't expect to find any in a pet shop. The range available means they are generally not stocked in retail outlets.

Complications

When it comes to marine aquariums there is a lot less room for error regarding most aspects. Marine reefs are sensitive ecosystems that will not tolerate fluctuation. Your saltwater fish tank will require a number of water test kits that you can usually do without in freshwater aquaria.

Aquarium Calculators

2008-01-30T15:52:00.001-08:00

Aquarium Volume Calculator

The websites below contain aquarium volume calculators and other tools useful for fish tank equations. Accurately determining your aquarium volume will allow the correct dosage for medications, chlorine neutralisers and hardness compounds.

Even with the help of an aquarium volume calculator you will have to make corrections. When inputting the dimensions be sure to measure the height of the water rather than the entire aquarium height.

The aquarium substrate and any aquarium decorations will also skew the results by taking up part of the aquarium volume. For the most accurate result measure the amount of water displaced by the objects when submerged. Alternately you can make a fair estimate of the volume and subtract this from the total.

Aquarium Chillers

2008-01-30T15:46:00.002-08:00

Cool Device For Your Fish As the name suggests aquarium water chillers are devices that keep your fish tank water cool in warmer climates. They are mainly used in marine aquariums where sensitivity to temperature is a characteristic of the fish kept. Fancy gold fish in tropical zones also benefit from the use of a fish tank chiller. Aquarium chillers also help you avoid having low levels of dissolved oxygen. This is due to cold water having a greater capacity to hold dissolved oxygen. Types and selection of Aquarium Chillers It is quite important to choose the right chiller for your requirements. Consult your supplier for an estimate of the correct aquarium chiller capacity that is required for your aquarium. There are three basic types of chillers for aquariums. All of these chillers will keep the water in the aquarium below a chosen temperature. Using one of these aquarium chilling devices will keep the water below a chosen temperature irrespective of the weather. Drop-In Chiller These units are most common for aquariums having saltwater fish or reef set-ups. There is no plumbing necessary as they are fitted in line with filter assemblies. They are renowned for their simple installation and low maintenance. Thermoelectric Chiller This type of chiller is generally used to cool small aquariums. They are suitable for a smaller water flow and a fish tank that has a capacity of less than 50-60 gallons of water. Larger tanks can not be serviced by these chillers as they require a higher rate of water flow. None the less, thermoelectric chillers are fairly energy efficient and silent units that can be fitted with both; fresh water and saltwater fish aquariums. In-Line Chiller These aquarium chillers are manufactured with powerful motor of around ½ to 1 HP. This makes them an ideal choice for the aquariums having more than 55-60 gallons capacity of storing water. When used with salt water aquariums these chillers are often fixed in series with In line filtration systems.

This type of aquarium chiller is best installed in a spacious area where there is good ventilation. This is because it has a compressor and cooling fans that are connected to your aquarium with pipelines. They are quite large and require correct installation. The pipelines may require some modification to suit your situation. The design must be planned before installing such aquarium chillers.DIY Aquarium Chiller Because of the expertise involved in creating your own aquarium chiller, it is a task best not attempted by the average fishkeeper. There is no practical DIY alternative to buying the aquarium water chiller. Do not even bother attempting to route your water through an old freezer or point an air conditioner at the water.Marine Aquarium Chillers Most aquarium water chillers will be suitable for the harsh environment of a marine aquarium.Since these devices are mainly used in marine aquariums it is not surprising. None the less, you should make sure the model you choose is in fact a marine aquarium chiller.Buying The Chiller When it comes time to part with your hard earned money expect to pay several hundred dollars for your aquarium water chiller. Cheap aquarium chillers purchased second hand are one money saving option. Sometimes people will buy an old second hand marine aquarium and discard the chiller in preference of their new plans for a tropical tank. This can be a good opportunity to pick up an aquarium chiller cheaply. If they are a reliable brand such as Teco aquarium chillers there is every chance the second hand alternative will chill your fish tank for years to come.

Aquarium pH

2008-01-30T15:45:00.000-08:00

PH is a system for measuring the free Hydrogen ions available within a given solution. It is described on a scale of 0 through to 14 where 7 is said to be neutral. Below 7 is considered acidic and above 7 is in the alkaline range.

In acidic water there is an abundance of negatively charged hydrogen ions but a smaller number of suitable molecules to bond with. For alkaline water the chemistry is reversed as any free hydrogen is quickly bonded into larger molecules when available. Neutral water is in a state of equilibrium where the acidic and alkaline reagents have balanced one another out.

In an aquarium, free hydrogen accumulates through the decay of fish wastes and other organic matter. Therefore most aquariums will gradually move toward a state of acidity as natural biological processes run their course. Calcium carbonate based rocks and gravel are said to have a buffering effect which can keep the water in the alkaline range. This occurs as the components dissolve and bond with the free Hydrogen.

Thankfully applying pH to your aquarium does not require an intimate knowledge of chemistry. Most aquarium fish have a well documented pH preference. It is common that a fish's requirements usually fall within the range of 6.5 and 7.5. To keep your aquarium inhabitants content it is a simple process of measuring and adjusting the pH of the water.
Measuring pH

Determining the aquarium pH level is a simple procedure. Accurate test kits are available from pet outlets for this purpose. Tablet based kits or litmus paper are suitable, but the most economical method involves a liquid reagent that is added to a water sample.

Bromothymol blue is the most common testing reagent in such kits. Such products will typically perform several hundred tests. After a few drops have been added to a fresh water sample the resulting colour is compared to a chart. By matching the colour and shade a reasonably accurate pH reading can be obtained.
Adjusting pH

Changing the aquarium pH is a simple process of adding one of two chemicals. The manufacturer's instructions will not prescribe a set dosage however. Instead, the chemical is added and the water is retested until the desired level is achieved.

Such adjustment products are also readily available from pet shops. Some pH test kits will even include these adjustment chemicals as part of the package. Generally you will find yourself using alkalinity increase powders rather than acidifying agents. Therefore these package deals may not be the most economical choice in the long run.

Cüce Cichlids, Cüce Vatos Görüntüleri

2007-12-08T12:01:00.000-08:00

Amerikan Cichlidleri Cüce Cichlid Otocinclus affinis Vatoz Akvaryum movielerim my aquariim video

Volitan Lion, Lion Fish, Aslanbalığı Görüntüleri

2007-12-07T21:49:00.000-08:00

Volitan Lion, Lion Fish, Pterois volitans, Aslanbalığı Görüntüleri. Sanki akvaryumun kralı salına salına nasılda yüzüyor ama…

Volitan Lion Fish Aslanbalığı Görüntüleri aquatic Pterois volitans Akvaryum video Aquarium movie akvaryumum

Barbus conchonius

2007-12-05T21:02:00.000-08:00

Origin:Pakistan, India and Bangladesh.

Etymology: Unk

Synonyms: Cyprinus conchonius, Puntius conchonius, Systomus conchonius, Puntius ticto?(Feigs,1955).

First European import: Germany, 1903, by H. Stüve.

Description:See pictures.

Care: Very easy to keep fish, not particular to waterchemistry or temperature, although they shouldn't be kept at constant high temperatures. In the summer it's best to turn of the heater overnight. The fish do require a lot of swimming space, so a 80 cm tank or larger is necessary, with plants on the sides. Although the fish can get quite big, they stay smaller in tanks, where they can grow to up to 8 cm. A little sunlight in the morning is highly appreciated by the fish, and algae that form because of it are grazed eagerly.
Temperature: 12-22 degrees.
eeding:Omnivorous, all food is taken. Occasionally feed vegetables as well.

Size:Up to 15 cm.

pH: 6.0-7.5

Breeding: The fish are free spawners, and will spawn at 6 cm and larger. Will spawn in any tank, although older fish should be placed in larger spawning tanks. The bottom should be constructed in a way that the parents cannot eat the eggs after they spawned. It's best to have more females than males. Temperature should be raised to 24-25 degrees, water medium hard, and preferably slightly acidic. Baensch and Riehl(1995) report that a lowered waterlevel may be necessary to induce spawning, others report that the fish will only spawn in early spring. The male will pursue the female through the tank until she's ready to spawn at a place selected by the male. Each time around 20 eggs are produced, which are immediately fertilized by the male. This will continue until several hundreds of eggs are laid(More in large animals). After this the parents should be removed, or they will eat all the eggs and fry. The eggs will hatch in a day, and the fry should be fed large amounts of food per day.

Sexual dimorphism:Males are smaller, and more colorful.

UPSIDE DOWN FISH TANK

2007-12-05T21:00:00.001-08:00

Simplified. Easy maintenance. Clear water. Fish can move from bottom to top tank. I welcome comments to further improve my set up.

Monterey Bay Aquarium Trip

2007-12-05T20:54:00.000-08:00

My LP and I headed down to the Monterey Bay Aquarium and it was FANTASTIC and well worth the admission price. Well, we put this video montage (watch Team America to really understand what a montage is all about) together which illustrates a SLICE of the magnificence in this play.

Monterey Bay Aquarium Trip

monterey bay aquarium sunfish fish ocean aquarium wild life ocean life shark

AQUA Freshwater Aquarium, Denmark

2007-12-05T19:03:00.000-08:00

Denmark's AQUA is the largest freshwater aquarium in Europe. It's unique galleries include artificial lakes with side viewing glasses, which simulate typical lake ecosystems in Denmark. This Denmark's AQUA is the largest freshwater aquarium in Europe. It's unique galleries include artificial lakes with side viewing glasses, which simulate typical lake ecosystems in Denmark.

This video serves as a guide of common European freshwater fish species that are found at AQUA. Four different environments are featured, including a polluted lake, a healthy lake, a typical Danish stream...

Aquarium of the Pacific

2007-12-05T19:01:00.000-08:00

A Day at the Aquarium of the Pacific at Long Beach, California. Check out the happy, spinning sea otter!...aquarium long beach shark sea

Osaka Aquarium

2007-12-05T18:59:00.000-08:00

osaka aquarium japan whale shark penguins otter best video sun crab monsters dom bower dombower

Setting up a large tropical freshwater aquarium

2007-12-05T18:56:00.000-08:00

Practical Fishkeeping magazine online shows you how to set up a large tropical freshwater aquarium....aquarium aquariums fishkeeping fish

Aquarium toilet

2007-12-05T18:50:00.000-08:00

This underwater restroom built into the side of an aquarium is located at a cafe in Akashi, Japan....aquarium toilet japan

My Crenicara Altispinosa picture galeri

2007-11-08T02:06:00.000-08:00

Tetraodon Nigroviridis Movies

2007-11-07T04:54:00.000-08:00

Click For Tetraodon Nigroviridis Bell All You Tube Videos

Tetraodon Nigroviridis

2007-11-07T04:48:00.000-08:00

Order: Tetraodontiformes (puffers and filefishes)

Class: Actinopterygii (ray-finned fishes)

FishBase name: Spotted green pufferfish

Max. size: 17.0 cm TL (male/unsexed; Ref. 12693)

Environment: demersal; freshwater; brackish; pH range: 8.0 – 8.0; dH range: 9 - 19 Climate: tropical; 24 – 28°C

Importance: fisheries: of no interest; aquarium: commercial; bait: ; price category: very high; price reliability: very questionable: based on ex-vessel price for species in this family Resilience: High, minimum population doubling time less than 15 months(Preliminary K or Fecundity.)

Distribution: Asia: Sri Lanka to Indonesia and north to China.

Biology: Adults inhabit freshwater streams, rivers and floodplains. Feed on mollusks, crustaceans, and other invertebrates, as well as some plant matter. May eat scales and fins (Ref. 12693). Seen in the aquarium trade but known to be aggressive with its tankmates (Ref. 12693). Aquarium keeping: needs salt; minimum aquarium size 60 cm; not recommended for home aquariums (Ref. 51539).

Tetraodon Nigroviridis

2007-11-07T04:10:00.000-08:00

My Puffer Fish Tetraodon Nigroviridis Picture Galeri

My labidochromis caeruleuses fry picture galeri-1

2007-11-06T23:56:00.000-08:00

Labidochromis caeruleuses fry

2007-10-29T19:03:00.000-07:00

My first labidochromis caeruleuses frys:

My aquarium video-2

2007-10-29T18:51:00.000-07:00

Corydoras, Duboyisi, Labidochromis caeruleus, Cyrtocara moorii, Moori and my aquarium:

Tropheus duboisi

2007-10-26T15:28:00.000-07:00

Tropheus duboisi is a tough and rugged cichlid from Lake Tanganyika that, despite its quarrelsome behavior, is endearing to many hobbyists. Even though Tropheus species are hearty, keeping them is not without challenges. Hopefully, this article will help the beginner as well as the more advanced hobbyist properly and successfully care for them.

Tropheus duboisi is my favorite of the Tropheus complex. This fish starts out as a juvenile with a jet black body adorned with dozens of white spots that completely cover its flanks. As it matures, it loses its spots and develops a blue head with a vertical yellow band (or white if from Burundi). The Maswa variety are perhaps the most popular in the hobby because its yellow band is particularly wide. Males and females have identical coloration; however, there are a few subtle differences between sexes that may help you differentiate them.

For example, males tend to have a turned-up nose while females tend to have a greater slope and rounded nose. Males will also grow at a faster rate (generally) and display their adult colors sooner. Males' coloration is also often more bold than females' because they like to show it off when courting females. Adult males will also tend to have a deeper body, whereas females appear more slim and streamline. While these characteristics may help an experienced hobbyist, venting is the only sure way to determine gender with Tropheus.

T. duboisi is strictly herbivorous like all Tropheus species. They spend the majority of their time scraping algae from the rocks in both an aquarium as well as in the wild. Males are quite territorial and are aggressive in their attempts to coax females to spawn. They never seem to tire of this either - males want to spawn every minute of the day. This fish should never be kept in 1:1 ratios. One male to three or four females is an ideal ratio, but keep in mind that the "only correct way to keep this species in captivity is in a group of ten or more individuals." The most difficult challenge to breeding T. duboisi is bringing the females into spawning condition.

Once a female has spawned and is brooding her young, she should be removed so as to prevent undue harrassment by the dominant male in the tank. Incubation lasts anywhere from 24-28 days, and seems to be temperature dependent. Fry are robust and of a fairly large size. Mouthbrooding females usually do not fast during incubation and will in fact eat with their tank mates, although perhaps not as aggressively.

Due to the territorial nature of all Tropheus species, a colony should be established all at once. New individuals should never be added to an existing colony, as they disrupt the pecking order. A tank of no smaller than 75 gallons is recommended for a colony of duboisi because of their aggressive nature and because they should be kept in quantities of ten or more. Plenty of caves and other hiding places should be provided so as to give females sufficient room to hide. If you plan to keep more than one male in the same tank, you might consider going with a 125 gallon aquarium. Dithers, such as rainbow fish, help to reduce the aggression of males on females.

Eventhough Tropheus are much like their Malawi counterpart - the Mbuna - they are not as easy to keep and definitely not for the beginner. They are strict about having their water clean and have even been known to "bloat" on hobbyists who looked at them the wrong way. They require patience and a willingness to learn from one's mistakes, but when they are cared for properly, they have a personality that is sure to please. Romaine lettuce and spinach are highly recommended and one of these should be at least once daily. A green flake food (e.g., Spirulina-based) and the European Shrimp Mix are the only foods I'd recommend as the major constituent of their diet. Soft and easily digested foods, such as brine shrimp and insect larvae, should be avoided at all costs.

Aulonocara baenschi

2007-10-24T08:44:00.000-07:00

The peacocks are among the most stunning of all Cichlids. There is a reason why they've earned the name "Peacock." And A. baenschi is no exception. Males of this species take on a strong yellowish-orange color with irridescent blue around their jaw.
Females, like other Aulonocara spp. remain colorless. In my experience with this species, it takes males almost two full years to attain their maximum coloration, but the wait is well worth it. Baenschi are easily distinguished from other yellow-bodied, blue-headed peacocks because of the extremely curved forehead and nose. Note the photo below.

Like many peacocks, A. baenschi is found in areas with scattered rocks on a sandy bottom, but particularly in the region surrounding Nkhomo reef near Benga in Malawi. It feeds on invertebrates that dwell in the sand by lying motionless over the sandy bottom, sensing micro-movements in the substrate. When it finds a target, it darts rapidly into the sand and sifts it by shooting the sand out its gills while retaining the acquired treat.

In the aquarium environment, this cichlid species is best kept with other docile cichlids. Mbuna are too rambunctious for this slow-moving and peaceful peacock. Other peacocks and many of the gregarious Haps and Utaka (e.g., C. moorii, O. lithobates, and Copadichromis spp.) work well as tank mates. They should also be kept in tanks no smaller than 50 gallons if kept with other species as they reach adult lengths of 4-5 inches. A 40-gallon aquarium with only 1 male and 6 females would be an ideal breeding set up. Males tend to be rather aggressive towards females; therefore, it is recommended keeping several females for each male in order to reduce the level of aggression directed at any one female. Broods for adult-sized females range anywhere from 20 to 40 fry.

Lionfish

2007-10-23T20:26:00.000-07:00

Clearfin Lionfish

Certain fish could be considered icons of the marine aquarium hobby. A short list of saltwater "celebrities" would vary at least a little among experienced aquarists, but one species that would no doubt be near the top of this list is the volitans or common lionfish. When I worked at a retail fish store, I sold many of these fish and encountered many people who set up saltwater tanks because they fell in love with this ornate creature.

The volitans lionfish is not the only amazing member of the subfamily Pteroinae, a group of fish known collectively as lionfish (or less often as turkeyfish, firefish or butterfly cod). There are a number of lionfish species that enter the aquarium trade. Although most are considered to be relatively durable aquarium fish, some are more demanding than others, and all require some special care if they are going to thrive in captivity.

In this article, I'll use a question and answer format to share information on this remarkable group of fish. These are questions that hobbyists have asked me over the years.

How many species of lionfish are there?
Lionfish are members of the family Scorpaenidae (scorpionfish) and the subfamily Pteroinae. There are six genera in this subfamily, and approximately 22 species. See "Lionfish Species" to the right for a list of the species in this subfamily. The fish you most often see in the aquarium trade belong to two genera: Dendrochirus and Pterois.
There is some debate as to the validity of some of the species in the genus Pterois. This is especially true for members of the volitans species complex. There are a number of species in this group that are very similar, including the Kodipungi, Japanese, Indian, Russell's, longspine and, of course, volitans lionfishes.

These species are thought to differ in one or more of the following characteristics: dorsal spine length, markings on the median fins and number of fin spines. It is thought that P. volitans is found in the Pacific Ocean, whereas the Indian Ocean form is actually a distinct species known as P. muricata.

Antenna Lion

How do the two species differ? The Indian lionfish has one less ray in the dorsal and anal fins, and the pectoral fin rays are slightly shorter than those of P. volitans. Do not confuse P. muricata with P. miles (a name formerly used for the Indian Ocean form of P. volitans). Pterois miles is a separate, rare species apparently limited to murky coastal habitats in the northern Indian Ocean. These are subtle differences that most aquarists will not notice.

How venomous are lionfish?
As mentioned, the lionfish are members of the scorpionfish family. These fish get their name

from their venomous dorsal, pelvic and anal fin spines. These spines are like hypodermic needles; each spine is connected to a venom sac situated in the dorsal musculature of the fish. When these spines penetrate the flesh of another fish or human, venom is injected through a groove in the spine.
On a recent trip to the Philippines, I made the mistake of placing my finger on the dorsal fin of a shortfin lionfish (D. brachypterus). The resulting envenomation was similar to a bee sting, and the pain was relatively short lived. That said, I know someone who was stung on the thigh by a large volitans lionfish and ended up on the deck of the boat writhing in pain. In this case, the pain lasted for hours. Zoologist H. Steinitz was stung on the finger by a 4-inch P. volitans. Regarding this sting, he said, "I was tortured by pains beyond measure, and yet the pain was still growing more intense. It is just short of driving oneself completely mad."

The most common symptoms associated with lionfish stings are intense pain in the affected area and swelling. The pain subsides as treatment is administered, and in most cases subsides within 24 hours. More serious envenomation may include weakness, shortness of breath, nausea, vomiting, delirium, fever, chest and abdominal pain, and even unconsciousness.

The severity of an envenomation event may depend on the species and the size of the lionfish. I have not been able to find any information indicating if toxicity of the venom of various species differs, but as in venomous snakes and scorpions, this could be the case. It would also make sense that a larger lionfish may inject a large quantity of venom. In very rare cases, lionfish stings have caused death.

Therefore, make sure you treat your lionfish with the utmost respect!

What do I do if I get stung by my lionfish?
If you are stung by your lionfish, immediately immerse the wound in hot, nonscalding water (from 110 to 113 degrees Fahrenheit for 30 or 40 minutes or until pain has diminished), or heat it with a hair dryer. The heat will denature the protein that constitutes the venom and prevent it from spreading through your body. If the aforementioned symptoms occur, it is advisable to seek medical attention immediately.

How are most aquarists stung by lionfish?
Although there are fanciful stories in the old aquarium literature of lionfish dashing across the tank to stab their human keepers, the venomous dorsal spines of lionfish are used primarily for defensive purposes. There are situations in which at least certain species of lionfish employ their spines in an offensive manner. When fighting for females, male lionfish (especially Dendrochirus spp.) regularly spar using their dorsal spines to inflict damage to their rivals. Although it is unlikely your lionfish will "attack" you, they will raise and direct their spines toward a potential threat, and this could include a hand moving in the aquarium.

In most cases of lionfish stings, aquarists are stung while cleaning the tank or transferring a lionfish from one tank to another. The preoccupied aquarist accidentally bumps or brushes into the lionfish's needle-sharp dorsal spines. In order to prevent envenomation, be vigilant when working in a lionfish's aquarium.
Many lionfish hide behind pieces of aquarium décor and can easily go unnoticed. Locate these fish before cleaning the tank to prevent accidental contact. Also, you should never place your hand or arm too near a lionfish's dorsal spines, because if they perceive you as a threat, they can arch their backs and thrust their dorsal armament forward to jab you.

What and when do lionfish eat in the wild?
The diets of lionfish vary among genera and species. Studies have shown that members of the genus Dendrochirus feed mainly on crustaceans, while Pterois species (especially the larger, more active members of the genus) include more fish in their diet. For example, adult volitans lionfish feed more heavily on fish than most other members of the genus, but crabs and shrimp (including the banded coral shrimp, Stenopus hispidus) are also important in their diet. With larger Pterois, studies suggest that crustaceans are also more important in the diets of juveniles than adults.

Most lionfish feed at dusk or in the dark. For example, the spotfin lionfish emerges from its daytime hiding place (usually a crevice or a cave), and begins to hunt shrimp and crabs in the late afternoon. It continues these hunting forays into the night. The volitans lionfish and some of its close relatives are more likely to feed during the day than their more secretive relatives. For example, in Japan, I often saw large Japanese lionfish strike at cardinalfish that moved too far from cover in the early mornings.

The volitans lionfish (Pterois volitans) is a popular fish that can live a decade or more in the home aquarium.
Story and Photos by Scott Michael

Certain fish could be considered icons of the marine aquarium hobby. A short list of saltwater "celebrities" would vary at least a little among experienced aquarists, but one species that would no doubt be near the top of this list is the volitans or common lionfish. When I worked at a retail fish store, I sold many of these fish and encountered many people who set up saltwater tanks because they fell in love with this ornate creature.

The volitans lionfish is not the only amazing member of the subfamily Pteroinae, a group of fish known collectively as lionfish (or less often as turkeyfish, firefish or butterfly cod). There are a number of lionfish species that enter the aquarium trade. Although most are considered to be relatively durable aquarium fish, some are more demanding than others, and all require some special care if they are going to thrive in captivity.

In this article, I'll use a question and answer format to share information on this remarkable group of fish. These are questions that hobbyists have asked me over the years.

How many species of lionfish are there?
Lionfish are members of the family Scorpaenidae (scorpionfish) and the subfamily Pteroinae. There are six genera in this subfamily, and approximately 22 species. See "Lionfish Species" to the right for a list of the species in this subfamily. The fish you most often see in the aquarium trade belong to two genera: Dendrochirus and Pterois.
The green lionfish (Dendrochirus barberi) is only known from the Hawaiian Islands, and like other Dendrochirus, feeds mostly on crustaceans.

There is some debate as to the validity of some of the species in the genus Pterois. This is especially true for members of the volitans species complex. There are a number of species in this group that are very similar, including the Kodipungi, Japanese, Indian, Russell's, longspine and, of course, volitans lionfishes.

These species are thought to differ in one or more of the following characteristics: dorsal spine length, markings on the median fins and number of fin spines. It is thought that P. volitans is found in the Pacific Ocean, whereas the Indian Ocean form is actually a distinct species known as P. muricata.

How do the two species differ? The Indian lionfish has one less ray in the dorsal and anal fins, and the pectoral fin rays are slightly shorter than those of P. volitans. Do not confuse P. muricata with P. miles (a name formerly used for the Indian Ocean form of P. volitans). Pterois miles is a separate, rare species apparently limited to murky coastal habitats in the northern Indian Ocean. These are subtle differences that most aquarists will not notice.

How venomous are lionfish?
As mentioned, the lionfish are members of the scorpionfish family. These fish get their name from their venomous dorsal, pelvic and anal fin spines. These spines are like hypodermic needles; each spine is connected to a venom sac situated in the dorsal musculature of the fish. When these spines penetrate the flesh of another fish or human, venom is injected through a groove in the spine.

About the Author

Twenty years of research experience has brought Scott Michael sponsorship and funding for projects as varied as the study of the draughtsboard shark in New Zealand, hammerheads in the Gulf of California, in addition to creatures as varied as frogfishes, green sunfish, and stingrays. He has worked alongside some of the worlds top marine animal experts, and published several well received scientific papers on his findings.

As a writer he is best known for his definitive work "Reef Fishes; a Guide to their Identification, Behavior, and Captive Care, Volume 1." He is also author of more than 60 popular articles for aquarium and dive magazines, was a contributing editor to a leading aquarium publication for two years, and for the past six years has had a regular monthly column in Aquarium Fish Intl.. He was also been co-author of two marine CD ROM programs. He is a major contributor to and partner in perhaps the best known educational marine life and dive travel website www.coralrealm.com. Scott was also a scientific consultant and filming assistant for the Mike DeGruy film, "Sharks: On Their Best Behavior," and also contributed to a Marty Snyderman film, "View From the Cage."

Scott lives with his wife Janine, herself an accomplished underwater photographer and active partner in his research, in their home on Lincoln, Neb. They share their home with their golden retriever, Ruby.
On a recent trip to the Philippines, I made the mistake of placing my finger on the dorsal fin of a shortfin lionfish (D. brachypterus). The resulting envenomation was similar to a bee sting, and the pain was relatively short lived. That said, I know someone who was stung on the thigh by a large volitans lionfish and ended up on the deck of the boat writhing in pain. In this case, the pain lasted for hours. Zoologist H. Steinitz was stung on the finger by a 4-inch P. volitans. Regarding this sting, he said, "I was tortured by pains beyond measure, and yet the pain was still growing more intense. It is just short of driving oneself completely mad."

The most common symptoms associated with lionfish stings are intense pain in the affected area and swelling. The pain subsides as treatment is administered, and in most cases subsides within 24 hours. More serious envenomation may include weakness, shortness of breath, nausea, vomiting, delirium, fever, chest and abdominal pain, and even unconsciousness.

The severity of an envenomation event may depend on the species and the size of the lionfish. I have not been able to find any information indicating if toxicity of the venom of various species differs, but as in venomous snakes and scorpions, this could be the case. It would also make sense that a larger lionfish may inject a large quantity of venom. In very rare cases, lionfish stings have caused death.

Therefore, make sure you treat your lionfish with the utmost respect!

What do I do if I get stung by my lionfish?
If you are stung by your lionfish, immediately immerse the wound in hot, nonscalding water (from 110 to 113 degrees Fahrenheit for 30 or 40 minutes or until pain has diminished), or heat it with a hair dryer. The heat will denature the protein that constitutes the venom and prevent it from spreading through your body. If the aforementioned symptoms occur, it is advisable to seek medical attention immediately.

How are most aquarists stung by lionfish?
Although there are fanciful stories in the old aquarium literature of lionfish dashing across the tank to stab their human keepers, the venomous dorsal spines of lionfish are used primarily for defensive purposes. There are situations in which at least certain species of lionfish employ their spines in an offensive manner. When fighting for females, male lionfish (especially Dendrochirus spp.) regularly spar using their dorsal spines to inflict damage to their rivals. Although it is unlikely your lionfish will "attack" you, they will raise and direct their spines toward a potential threat, and this could include a hand moving in the aquarium.

In most cases of lionfish stings, aquarists are stung while cleaning the tank or transferring a lionfish from one tank to another. The preoccupied aquarist accidentally bumps or brushes into the lionfish's needle-sharp dorsal spines. In order to prevent envenomation, be vigilant when working in a lionfish's aquarium.
The Fu Manchu lionfish (Dendrochirus biocellatus) gets its name from the moustachelike dermal appendages that extend out from the upper jaw.

Many lionfish hide behind pieces of aquarium décor and can easily go unnoticed. Locate these fish before cleaning the tank to prevent accidental contact. Also, you should never place your hand or arm too near a lionfish's dorsal spines, because if they perceive you as a threat, they can arch their backs and thrust their dorsal armament forward to jab you.

What and when do lionfish eat in the wild?
The diets of lionfish vary among genera and species. Studies have shown that members of the genus Dendrochirus feed mainly on crustaceans, while Pterois species (especially the larger, more active members of the genus) include more fish in their diet. For example, adult volitans lionfish feed more heavily on fish than most other members of the genus, but crabs and shrimp (including the banded coral shrimp, Stenopus hispidus) are also important in their diet. With larger Pterois, studies suggest that crustaceans are also more important in the diets of juveniles than adults.

Most lionfish feed at dusk or in the dark. For example, the spotfin lionfish emerges from its daytime hiding place (usually a crevice or a cave), and begins to hunt shrimp and crabs in the late afternoon. It continues these hunting forays into the night. The volitans lionfish and some of its close relatives are more likely to feed during the day than their more secretive relatives. For example, in Japan, I often saw large Japanese lionfish strike at cardinalfish that moved too far from cover in the early mornings.
A number of rare lionfishes, such as Brachypterois serrulata, do not regularly make it into the aquarium trade.

Some lionfish may engage in cooperative hunting; individuals will work together to increase their chances of hunting success. Groups of volitans lionfish will herd schools of small baitfish up against the reef, isolate a smaller group, then launch their attacks. In Papua, New Guinea, I observed a fascinating example of P. volitans' cooperative hunting behavior in Milne Bay. It occurred on a barren sand slope, where there were solitary and clustered venomous sea urchins (Astropyga radiata). These urchins were with the commensal urchin cardinalfish Siphamia versicolor. At dusk, I observed three large volitans lionfish surrounding a solitary urchin. The cardinalfish would retreat from one side of the urchin to the other to get out of the path of the nearest lionfish - but when it did, it would swim into the strike zone of one of the other waiting predators.

Do lionfish need live feeder fish?
Although it can be interesting to observe lionfish consuming feeder fish, feeder fish do not provide a nutritionally complete diet. It may be necessary to feed your lionfish live food initially, such as live ghost shrimp, fiddler crabs, freshwater crawfish, feeder guppies, mollies, or even cardinalfish or damselfish. Unfortunately, many aquarists feed their lionfish live feeder goldfish.

This is probably the worst possible choice. Raw goldfish flesh contains thiaminase, an enzyme that causes the breakdown of thiamin. If you feed your lionfish a diet that consists only of goldfish, they may become thiamin deficient. This can result in feeding cessation, clamped fins and problems with the nervous system. Yes, I have seen lionfish kept a number of years and fed only live feeder fish, but you are more likely to have success if you do not feed your lionfish live feeder goldfish. I prefer feeding live ghost shrimp to newly acquired lionfish. Before you introduce the shrimp to the lionfish tank, feed these crustaceans a nutritious frozen prepared food. Then, feed the shrimps to your lionfish. This is known as "gut packing"; you are packing the guts of the shrimp with nutrients that will be passed on to the predator consuming the shrimp.

Although some species are reluctant to accept anything but live food, you should attempt to switch your lionfish to nonliving food. One of the easiest ways to do this is to take a piece of marine fish flesh or a piece of fresh shrimp, and make it "swim" around the tank by attaching it to the end of a piece of rigid air line tubing. There are other ways to dupe your lionfish into taking onliving food - just use your imagination.
How often should I feed my lionfish?
In the wild, a lionfish will consume from one to more than 10 small- to medium-size prey items per day. In the aquarium, it is preferable to feed your lionfish two or three times a week, depending on the temperature of the aquarium (at lower water temperatures, you will not need to feed them as much). If you feed a captive lionfish too much or do not vary the diet, fatty degeneration of the liver may occur. This condition can cause liver failure, which leads to suppression of the immune system, hemorrhaging and anemia.

It is thus important to vary the diet and not to feed your lionfish too much. It is also important not to feed your lionfish large prey items. These fish have been known to kill themselves by overeating. You should feed larger amounts of small prey items rather than one large morsel.

Which lionfish are most difficult to keep?
In my opinion, the most demanding species is the twinspot or Fu Manchu lionfish (Dendrochirus biocellatus). This species is very secretive and can be difficult to feed, especially if kept in a larger aquarium and/or housed with aggressive food competitors. I prefer to keep this species on its own in a smaller tank (20 or 30 gallons). You will need to feed it live ghost shrimp to initiate feeding and may have to continue feeding it live food because it is more difficult to switch to nonliving foods. In general, members of the genus Dendrochirus require a little more attention, especially when it comes to feeding, than Pterois.

What kinds of fish can be kept with them?
Keep lionfish with fish tankmates too large to eat. Lionfish swallow their prey whole, so as long as a fish is too large to swallow, it will typically be ignored by lionfish. That said, know that some lionfish can eat relatively large prey. This is especially true of fish that are longer in body shape, such as certain wrasses and gobies.

Deep-bodied fish, such as angelfish and butterflyfish, are less attractive targets. Although lionfish rarely sting fish tankmates, this can occur. This is more likely to happen with less agile tankmates, like other scorpionfish, puffers and porcupinefish. These fish have been known to accidentally land on or ram into lionfish spines.

While their venomous spines are effective for dissuading some predators, lionfish still have their enemies. I have had frogfish eat lionfish that were as long as they were, and there are reports of sharks, coronetfish and groupers eating lionfish. I have also seen larger angelfish, triggers and puffers nip at lionfish fin spines. Just because lionfish have a potent defense system does not mean they are invincible to attacks by other fish.

Can I keep more than one lionfish in the same tank?
Some lionfish will behave aggressively toward members of their own kind. For example, twinspot and shortfin lionfish have been known to chase one another - incessantly, in some cases. The submissive fish (the one being chased) will often stop feeding and may perish if not removed from the aquarium. Many Pterois tend to be more tolerant of their own species, as well as other lionfish species.

When placing more than one lionfish in the same tank, it is best to add smaller individuals first. Of course, problematic aggression is also less likely if the tank is larger. When keeping lionfish together, make sure you spend time watching them. If an individual is harassing others, you will need to remove the aggressor or those individuals getting picked on to ensure their survival.

Aggressive encounters between lionfish are typically limited to lateral displays, gill cover flaring and head shaking. If one individual does not back down, the combatants may bite each other. For example, an aggressive shortfin lionfish may grasp the head of an opponent in its mouth and vigorously shake it from side to side. This behavior can result in damage to the jaws of the fish that is attacked. Individuals may also bite the flanks of a species member. Some lionfish will ram each other with their venomous dorsal spines.

Although a lionfish stung by a species member will usually not die as a result, it can cause temporary distress, including an increased respiration rate (as much as three times its normal rate) and decreased swimming activity. I have also seen Dendrochirus lions in the wild that were missing eyes, which I would guess was the result of spines poking into them.

Can lionfish be kept in a reef aquarium?
Yes! Lionfish can make attractive and interesting additions to a reef aquarium. They will not harm sessile invertebrates, such as sponges and corals, but they are a threat to ornamental crustaceans.

So, if you decide you can live without a cleaner shrimp or anemone crab, a lionfish is an ideal addition to a reef tank. You can keep larger hermit crabs (too big for your lionfish to swallow) with lionfish, but they may eat small hermits. Of course, a lionfish is likely to ingest any fish that can fit in its mouth.

Although lionfish are not for everyone, they can be attractive and very interesting inhabitants in a fish-only or reef aquarium. Be sure you are aware of the risks involved as a lionfish owner (especially if you have small children at home), and be prepared to spend some time ensuring they get enough of the right foods. If you have other questions about lionfish, make sure you send them to Aquarium Fish Intl.'s "Saltwater Q&A." Until next time, happy fishwatching!

Betta Fish Breeding

2007-10-23T11:20:00.000-07:00

Betta fish are teritorial, this is why they fight. Most often the agression and fights occur between two male Bettas, however a new female introduced into a tank can threaten the existing male’s dominate role and cause him to attack, so care must be taken when introducing Bettas.

A good way to get a male and female together for breeding is to start with them in separate tanks that are side by side, or in the same tank with a tank-divider in place to keep them apart, just so they can see and become familiar with one another before being able to interact physically. It will take between 3 and 5 days before they’re ready to be allowed to interact, and even still a close eye needs to be kept on them at first to ensure the male doesn’t feel threatened and attack.

The best time for breeding is when your Bettas are between 6 and 12 months of age. Your male should be larger than your female, and the more energy and vibrant colors your fish have the better. These are signs of healthy fish.

The bottom of your breeding tank should be bare, and the water level kept at about 5 inches deep. Your water should also have a pH level of 7.0 and be constantly kept at just about 80 degrees fahrenheit. These are the most optimal conditions for breeding, and normal healthy living for your Betta fish.

When the male is ready to breed, he will begin making a bubble nest on the surface of the water by blowing tons of tiny bubbles together. You can aid him by making sure there is a large leaf floating in the tank for his bubble nest to stick to and build out from. It can take several days for him to complete his nest.

Even though the tank bottom should be bare, you will want to ensure there is some vegetation or tank decoration available where the female can hide. Male Bettas can get very aggressive during the courtship phase, so the female needs available shelter if he becomes too rough. She’ll also need a place to hide out after she’s laid her eggs. The male Betta will handle all the caring chores for the fertilized eggs.

Once the bubble nest is complete, and the courtship has led to the male impressing the female to stimulate her into laying eggs (up to 500), the female will usually turn over (belly up) and the male will wrap himself around her as she lays the eggs. Fertilized eggs will sink to the bottom which is why having it bare will help the male at this point, because once the female finishes she will retreat to shelter and the male will begin scooping the fertilized eggs from the bottom into his mouth, and placing them on the bubble nest.

It is a good idea to remove the female from the breeding tank at this point if you can without disturbing the bubble nest. Being a devoted father, the male Betta can view the female as a threat to the eggs in the nest and attack her. Also, you will want to discontinue changing out water in the breeding tank until after the baby fish are 2 weeks old. For this reason you need to be extra careful not to overfeed the tank in order to prevent the water from clouding too much.

The eggs will hatch within a few days into fry, which wil hang down from the bubble nest for several days as the fry feed from the yolk sack. In about 3 to 4 days the fry will begin swimming around freely, and at this point you must remove the male Betta (their father) from the tank or he will turn on his young and eat them.

At this point you should begin feeding the fry twice per day, either Baby Brine Shrimp or a special baby fish food called Daphnia. Tetra can also be given to the fry, but some think it is not the best starter food for Betta fish. Just remember not to overfeed the tank or your water will cloud up quickly and place the young fish at risk.

Once the fry are two weeks old you can begin changing out the water in the breeding tank again, but be very careful as the baby Bettas will still be small and fragile.

If all has gone right, you should have a tank full of young Bettas to either separate into multiple tanks for yourself, or to separate and sell to local pet stores, or to just give to your friends and family.

For even more detailed information on Betta fish breeding, check out .

Choosing the Right Fish for your Freshwater Aquarium

2007-10-23T11:19:00.000-07:00

Most beginning aquarium owners are soon overwhelmed with the large number and variety of decisions required when setting up a new aquarium. The owner must decide on the type, size, and location of the tank; whether it will be freshwater or saltwater; live or plastic plants; types of filters, heaters, lights, and food; and a hundred other technical questions that must be answered for designing a properly operating tank. Unfortunately, the last decision that is often made concerns the type and number of fish that are going to live in the tank. When the owner does decide on buying fish it is often done based on color and appearance. As a result, many new tanks fail to thrive and many fish perish as a result. Questions to ask when choosing fish The correct way to set up a new tank (after you are sure a fish tank is right for you) is to first research and decide what type of fish you would like to have in the tank. There are over 25,000 identified species of fish and over 2,000 of these are available to the aquarist. To help narrow down your list of desirable fish, you need to consider all of the following questions about the potential candidates:-How big is the fish going to get?-If the fish gets large will it prey on or frighten smaller fish in the tank?-Is the fish too small to fit in with the other fish in the tank?-Is the fish territorial and will it require a large space of its own?-Does the fish eat other fish? Many tropical fish do.-Does it nip the fins of other fish?-Is it aggressive or is it too shy and nervous to live with certain other species?-Does it eat live plants?-Does it dig in the bottom of the tank?-What kind of water does it require (pH, hardness, temperature, etc.)?-Is it available where you live?-What does it cost?-Is it raised domestically or taken out of the wild?-Does this particular fish need to live in groups or prefer to live alone? Once you have decided what fish you would like to have in your tank, then the rest of the decisions will fall into place much easier. One of the most important steps to take is to build the aquarium around the chosen fish species, not the other way around. You will be much more successful and have healthier fish if you build your aquarium around the needs of the fish rather than around your desire to have an attractive tank. If you create an aquarium where the needs of the individual fish in the tank are placed first, it will be both healthy and beautiful.The type, size, and location of the tank will be tailored to best suit the species of fish you choose. The filtering and heating choices will be based on the type of fish you choose. The plants, lighting, food source, substrate choice will all be tailored to provide the healthiest and most natural environment for your fish species.

Seven categories of aquarium fish To repeat what I mentioned earlier, there are over 2,000 species of fish available. To help make your search for the right fish easier, I have divided the most commonly available tropical fish into 7 main categories. Each one of these categories contains fish that are similar in many of their traits, however, it should be emphasized that this listing is just an outline and there are often many unique differences between fish in the same family and individual research into each specific species should be done before making your final decision.

Catfish: There are over 2,000 species of catfish each with their own unique characteristics, but as a group none of these fish have scales. They are covered with skin or an armor-like plating. Many catfish are used as scavengers in tanks and while many species are well adapted to this, some have very different eating habits. There is probably a species of catfish that would work well in just about any type of aquarium set up. The important thing is to find the catfish that will work best in your tank. Some things to consider when choosing a catfish are:

Some catfish can get very large (over seven feet)
Some catfish are nocturnal and need to be fed after dark
Some catfish are specialized feeders and are not scavengers
Coarse, sharp substrate (gravel) can damage or irritate some of the bottom feeding catfish
Some catfish need to live in groups

Characiforms (characins, tetras, hatchetfish, pencilfish, splash tetras): This category includes a very large number of fish that are commonly found in Africa and the Americas. Some of the smaller species are very popular in community tanks. Some of the larger ones (piranhas) are more difficult and better suited to experts. Many of these species are wild harvested.

Cichlids: This category consists of a large, very diverse number of fish that are commonly found in Africa, the tropical Americas, and Asia. The bright colors and diversity of habitat common to these species make them popular in many aquariums. The Cichlids all practice parental care, which makes them more territorial. When they are guarding their young or eggs they can be very aggressive towards any other fish in the area and may even guard their nest areas when they are not actively hatching young. This aggression makes most of them better suited to living in tanks where other species of fish are not present. However, some species (dwarf cichlids and angelfish) will live together well in a community tank if the right conditions are provided. Cypriniforms (barbs, danios, rasboras, ‘sharks,’ loaches, goldfish, koi): These fish are found in many locations throughout the world and the species include both tropical varieties and coldwater species such as the goldfish. Many of these species are popular in the aquarium because of their hardiness, ease of maintenance, and willingness to breed. Many species are sociable and do well in a community tank.Cyprinodonts (toothcarps, killifish): These fish are usually small and live and feed near the surface. The toothcarps consist of the egg layers that can be rare and difficult for beginners and the live bearers that are popular aquarium species such as guppies, mollies, swordtails, and platies.

Labyrinth Fish (gouramis, fighting fish, combtails, paradise fish): This group of fish is very popular with the aquarist. They are generally small, hardy, peaceful fish that are well suited to community aquariums with the exception of some of the aggressive males of the fighting fish, paradise fish, and both sexes of the adult combtails. Rainbowfish (rainbowfish, silversides): The fish from this family come from a variety of different habitats and the individual needs of each species should be researched. These fish tend to have an iridescent quality to their skin that makes them change colors as they move through the light. Most species are small, peaceful, and colorful, and make good additions to a community tank.

Conclusion The beginning aquarium owners will be faced with a variety of decisions. If they start with researching the individual fish and their requirements and then build their tank around the needs of the fish, they will be rewarded with a healthy, beautiful aquarium that will provide countless hours of enjoyment. References and Further ReadingBailey, M; Burgess, P. Tropical Fishlopedia. Howell Books. New York, NY; 2000. Burgess, P; Bailey, M; and Exell, A. A-Z of Tropical Fish. Howell Books. New York, NY; 1998. Burgess, WE; Axelrod, HR; Hunziker III, RE. Dr. Burgess’s Mini Atlas of Marine Aquarium Fishes. T.F.H. Publications; Neptune City, NJ; 1997.

My Aguarium Videos-001

2007-10-23T11:08:00.000-07:00

Mixed, Gorydoros and Discus

The Right Fish Tank Will Make Maintenance Much Easier

2007-10-23T10:33:00.000-07:00

The Right Fish Tank Will Make Maintenance Much Easier
Lee Dobbins

Tanks come in every size from small bowls to giant 500 gallon aquariums. Choosing the right tank will make your aquarium experience much more enjoyable for both you and the fish, so you’ll want to pick a tank that not only looks good, but is also functional and appropriate for your needs. Ultimately the decision is up to you - here’s some pointers and tips that might help to insure you pick one that is perfect for you!
Size

The rule of thumb for size when choosing a tank is that the bigger the aquarium tank, the less maintenance you’ll need to do and the more fish you can house. If you are just starting out you should consider a 20 to 30 gallon aquarium. You might be tempted by those little fish tanks or bowls that house 1 or 2 fish with no filtration, but I will tell you that the fish will not last long in that tank and you will spend a lot of time monitoring the water quality and performing water changes. A small 5 gallon aquarium tank is fine if you don’t have a lot of space but you will have to make sure you don’t overload it with fish or your water quality and fish health will suffer. Typically you can house 1 inch of fish for every gallon of water (in a fresh water aquarium, see below for info on salt water)- that is assuming you have proper filtration and aeration. So, if you have a 20 gallon aquarium tank, you can have 20 inches of fish, or about 15 fish with the smaller 5 gallon fish tanks you will only be able to house 2 or 3 fish.

Shape

Fish tanks come in many shapes as well as sizes. The most common are hexagon and rectangular, but you can also buy rounded bubble tanks, coffee table tanks and even thin tanks that fit right in your wall! When choosing the size of your fish tanks, you’ll want to consider the location where you will place the tanks to make sure the tank will fit and won’t stick out into any traffic areas.

Rectangular fish tanks are the best for your water quality and fish health. Since rectangular tanks are long, the surface area (or area of water that is exposed to the air) is larger in ratio than fish tanks of other size and allows for better exchange of gases and, thus a healthier tank. A hexagon shaped tank, looks neat, but since it is tall the surface area is smaller. You can still have a successful hexagon shaped aquarium tank, but you will probably need to spend more time maintaining the water and may not be able to house as many fish as you can in a rectangular fish tank that holds that same amount of water.

If you don’t have the room for a large fish tank we recommend this Eclipse 12 gallon aquarium tank as a nice mid-size tank with the added bonus of coming equipped with filtration and lighting. It has a pleasing curved front an measures 21″L x 11″W x 18″H.

If space is no issue, buy the largest tank you can afford - you’re water quality will be better insuring fish health and you’ll be able to keep more fish in it!

Want to start small? Try an Eclipse 5 Gallon Hexagon - comes with filtration and lighting!

Location

When choosing your fish tanks, it is important to think about it’s location in your home. If you are trying to add zest to an empty corner, a hexagon shaped tank might be ideal, but a long rectangular tank could make a great focal point along a wall. If just want to keep 1 fish as a conversation piece on a little shelf or bathroom vanity a fun decorative tank might be the way to go. Either way, be sure that you take the weight of the tank into consideration (a filled aquarium can weigh 12 pounds per gallon so a filled 20 gallon tank can weight over 200 pounds) and place it an area that can hold the weight as well as on the appropriate stand.
Acrylic or Glass?

Glass weighs more but is less expensive. Acrylic scratches easier but can be more aesthetically pleasing.

So which one is right for you?

Basically, it’s a matter of personal preference. Either one will do the job just as well as the other. Glass aquariums are held together by glass sealer, sometimes that sealer can wear out and spring a leak, but this can be fixed by adding more sealer - if you can find the leaking spot. Acrylic aquariums will rarely develop a leak, but can be scratched. However scratches on acrylic fish tanks can be removed or lightened whereas scratches, although much less likely, cannot be removed from glass. Having said that, you can avoid ever getting a scratch on your acrylic aquarium tank with just a bit of care - I’ve had one for years and have no scratches on it at all. Acrylic is 17 times stronger than glass and more flexible, thus resistant to shattering and the seamless construction and sleek lines give it a much more pleasing look. Due to this construction, acrylic fish tanks will probably last much longer than glass tanks so this fact combined with the fact that most acrylic fish tanks come with the hood and lighting added into the price (glass tanks do not) should offset the higher price of the acrylic aquarium tank. One other thing to remember with acrylic fish tanks - never use an ammonia cleaner While it’s probably a bad idea to use an ammonia cleaner near any fish tank, ammonia will crystalize the acrylic so stick to milder cleaning agents like vinegar and water.
Freshwater or Saltwater?

While saltwater fish tanks house more colorful fish, they are a bit more expensive both in setup and fish price. Although saltwater are less forgiving when water quality is not maintained, the overall maintenance of a saltwater tank (after initial setup) is not much more than that of a fresh water tank. For saltwater fish tanks, you will need a absolute minimum of a 20 gallon tank - in saltwater aquariums, the water quality is very important so the bigger the tank the better. Therfore, if you don’t have room for at least a 20 gallon tank, better stick with fresh water. I recommend a 55 gallon tank for the best saltwater aquarium experience. Salt water fish tanks will only house about 1/4 as many fish as fresh water, so a 55 gallon salt water aquarium tank will house about 15″ of fish (or about 7 or 8 fish) where fresh water fish tanks of the same size will house about 55″ of fish (or about 30 fish). Since you should have excellent filtration and a protein skimmer in order to make your saltwater fish tanks a success, you’ll probably spend more on it that you would a fresh water tank and, while not necessary, the decorations in that tank can be more expensive especially if you choose live rock and expensive substrate. Finally, since water quality in salt water tanks is paramount, and there is more things to test for, you will probably be spending more on test kits for your salt water fish tanks.

Once you have weighed the difference in startup and fish costs against the beauty of the saltwater fish and purchased and setup your tank, your tank will go through it’s cycling process just like a fresh water tank. The only difference in the salt water fish tanks is that due to the fragile nature of the fish, you may want to monitor the tank more closely than you would a fresh water tank. After the cycle is complete, you can fall back to regular maintenance that should take no more time than a fresh water tank would and includes partial water changes every month, and algae scraping once a week.